Welcome to the Tip Top Dog School Blog

A well-mannered dog is a pleasure to own – fitting in with your life-style and society in general. It’s never too late to start training your dog to be a nice person to live with! Tip Top Dog School's professional trainers have broad experience in a variety of canine activities and use use positive, motivational training methods based on scientific learning principles. We care about you and your dog and we treat the individuals on both ends of the lead with respect, empathy and kindness.

Please browse our blog for interesting articles and information related to you and your dog.

Wednesday, 11 November 2009

Using a long line on your dog

Greetings Tip Toppers!

There maybe times we may need to use a "long line" on our dogs for all sorts of reasons.Maybe the recall has become a bit rusty - let's face it,they are only human after all and all sorts of environmental factors can sabotage even the best "come when called responses"

Possibly your dog has started being a bit "rude" and rushing up to other dogs or taken to saying "hello" to pushchairs!
What ever the reason here are a few do's and don'ts!

1/Get yourself a good quality long line about 30 foot in length,preferably with a comfortable handle.Long lines are usually lighter than the usual leashes.

2/ NEVER attach a long line to your dogs collar.This will cause jarring of your dogs neck if you suddenly pull or stand on the long line.

3/ NEVER attach it to a check/choke chain ( please note,Tip Top Dog School does not permit the use of these - but also note,if you are using one on your dog that there is a right and a wrong way to put them on your dog.The wrong way and you will choke your dog causing irreparable damage to your dogs neck and larynx)

4/ NEVER attach it to a head bridle,halti,gentle leader etc.If you do and you pull hard on the long line you will give your dog whip lash.

5/ Attach the long line to a good quality soft harness with a fastening on the back not the front.

6/Do not use the long line to "reel" the dog back in to you - this is not teaching him anything.Go and get him. Then make up your mind to actually decide to teach a proper recall - consider getting some professional help.

7/If the long line is dragging on the ground and the dog is running don't pick it up or else you will get rope burns.Instead tie some knots in the line so that you can step on it and you will then have a few gripping spots for your foot.

8/Do not use the long line to get your dog back to you to punish him.

9/ If you are letting the long line drag on the ground tie a bright piece of ribbon etc to the end so as that make is easier to see where the end is.

10/ The long line is not to be used for tethering your dog in the garden when unsupervised.

If things seem to be getting out of hand do not despair! Get some professional help to get things back on an even keel.The relationship that you have with your dog is so important and both of you deserve to have a good quality walks together.

Monday, 9 November 2009

'People foods' that can kill your pet

It feels good to treat your pet to human food every once in a while. Those puppy-dog eyes are hard to resist as they watch you eat and try to convince you that they are starving! It makes you want to give them a taste of everything you eat. But beware: Giving in to those eyes and giving dogs human foods can actually harm them.

Many foods we enjoy can be dangerous to animals. It's best to stick to pet food and a diet recommended by your vet. Here are a few of the most toxic foods that can harm your pet:

Bad news foods
Avocados


They contain a toxic component called persin, which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. This fruit is very toxic to dogs, cats and most animals.

Beer


Alcoholic beverages can cause the same damage to an animal's liver and brain as they cause in humans. But the effects can be deadly on animals since they are much smaller than us. The smaller the animal, the more deadly the effects can be. Even a small amount of alcohol may cause vomiting and damage the liver and brain.


Nuts


Walnuts and macadamia nuts are especially toxic. Effects can be anything from vomiting to paralysis to death. Within 12 hours of eating the nuts, pets start to develop symptoms such as an inability to stand or walk, vomiting, hyperthermia (elevated body temperature), weakness, and an elevated heart rate. These symptoms can be even worse if your dog eats some chocolate with the nuts. The effect can cause kidney failure, often leading to death.


Chocolate

Chocolate contains theobromine, which can kill your pet if eaten in large quantities. Dark and unsweetened baking chocolates are especially dangerous. Giving your pup a piece of chocolate cake or even letting him lick the chocolate icing on the cake could cause him to become ill. Theobromine can also cause a dog or cat's heart to beat very rapidly or irregularly, which could result in death if the pet is exercising or overly active.

Sweets

Sweets or anything containing artificial sweeteners as this can cause a sudden drop in an animal's blood sugar, loss of coordination and seizures. If left untreated, the animal could die.

Caffeine

Coffee, tea or any product that contains caffeine stimulates an animal's central nervous and cardiac systems. This can lead to restlessness, heart palpitations and death, depending on how much the animal consumes.

Grapes and raisins


Grapes and raisins can lead to kidney failure in dogs. As little as a single serving of raisins can kill them.

And the effects are cumulative, which means that even if a dog eats just one or two grapes or raisins regularly, the toxin that builds in his system will eventually kill him.

Onions


Onions are another common food that can be highly toxic to pets. They can destroy an animal's red blood cells and lead to anaemia, weakness and breathing difficulties. Their effects are also cumulative over time.

Medicine

Hide medicine from your pets just like you would from your children. The most common cause of pet poisoning is from animals ingesting a medicine or drug normally prescribed for humans.

And this is not just because furry pals are getting into their pet parent's medicine cabinets. In many cases, pet owners give their feline and canine friends an over-the-counter medication to ease an animal's pain. But acetaminophen and ibuprofen, the active ingredients in many common pain relievers, are extremely toxic to dogs and cats. They can cause gastric ulcers, liver damage, kidney failure and sometimes death.

Good news foods
There are a few things that you CAN give to your furry pal. However, you should always consult a veterinarian before introducing a new food item to your pet.

Although these foods are normally harmless, some animals have sensitive gastrointestinal tracts. So even these healthy treats should be avoided if they cause gastrointestinal upset for your pet. Keep in mind that these and other "extras" should not make up more than 5 to 10 percent of the pet's daily caloric intake.

Lean meats
Any cooked lean meat should be fine for most dogs. High-fat meats, chicken skin and fat from steaks or roasts are not recommended. Ingestion may lead to gastrointestinal upset or even pancreatitis. This can be a very painful condition for dogs. In addition, most companion animals do not need extra fat in their diets. Never give your pet meat with the bone in it. Animals can choke on the bones, and they can splinter as well.

Vegetables

Carrot sticks, green beans, cucumber slices and zucchini slices are all OK.

Fruit

Apple slices, orange slices,bananas and watermelon are all OK. Make sure the seeds have been taken out; seeds are not good for your pet!

Baked potatoes

Plain baked potatoes are fine, but make sure they are cooked — no unripe potatoes or potato plants.

Bread

Plain cooked bread is fine; just make sure there are no nuts or raisins added.

Rice and pasta

Plain, cooked pasta and white rice are OK. Often veterinarians recommend plain rice with some boiled chicken when gastrointestinal upset is present.

In case of emergency
Despite all the precautions you take to keep your pet pals safe, accidents do happen. Common signs of poisoning include muscle tremors or seizures; vomiting and diarrhoea; drooling; redness of skin, ears and eyes; and swelling and bleeding. If you suspect your pet has consumed, inhaled or come in contact with a toxic substance, stay calm and call for help immediately. If you see your pet consuming anything you think might be toxic, seek emergency help immediately from your vet even if she or he is not exhibiting any symptoms

Friday, 30 October 2009

Kennel cough is doing the rounds again


There have been several cases of Kennel cough locally.
Kennel cough is a bronchitis characterized by a harsh, hacking cough which most people describe as sounding like "something stuck in my dog's throat." It is similar to a chest cold for humans and some strains are worse than others ( just like different flu viruses)
It is very contagious and is spread by droplet infection.Incubation is between 2 and 14 days.
Young,old and ailing dogs and dogs who may be under stress ( e.g in kennels or away from home) are particularly vulnerable.Most dogs get over it very quickly but sometimes older dogs,or dogs with weakened immune systems may get secondary infections ( just like humans can with colds developing in to bronchitis)

If you are unsure if your dog has contracted Kennel cough we would recommend that you seek veterinary treatment as soon as possible but please do advise the receptionist your suspicions as they may not want you in a busy waiting room with other dogs who may then contract it.
You will be advised to not allow your dog to mix freely with other dogs for anything up to 10 days.

The vaccine is administered up the nose as against injection but is quick and totally painless.

Note:Any vaccine takes days for immunity to develop.
Vaccinating on the day the dog is exposed may not be protective.Try to plan vaccination a few weeks before you need to put your dog in kennels to allow full immunity protection.

Halloween safety tips





Greetings Tip Toppers!
Halloween is almost upon us! Just a few tips to keep your dog safe and happy over this busy time.
A lot of you have young dogs who have never experienced this time of year.The door bell will be ringing a lot more than usual so here are a few reminders.
1/ Get your dog out for a walk before the Trick or Treaters start knocking.Your dog may get frightened by the strange costumes and we don't want them feeling threatened and stressed and then barking at children.
Don't forget the kids are up to mischief and over excited.
If you are going Trick or Treating with the kids PLEASE leave the dog at home!

Any small objects or toys could get swallowed,cause choking or a blockage and the next thing we know is your dog has to go to the vet for an operation to remove the object.
3/ Make sure that every member of the family knows where the dog is before the front door is opened! The last thing we want is for your dog to rush out of the front door and end up under the wheels of a car.If you have a baby gate to keep your dog away from the door please use it - the same as if you have a hall with a door you can shut so that the front door can be opened with safety.
When you open the front door please do not have your dog with you.

Make it a rule of the house - " If you don't know where the dog is don't open the front door".

Enjoy your Halloween Festivities!

Sue and Barbara

Tuesday, 27 October 2009

Prepare your dog for fireworks

Greetings Tip Toppers!

We are approaching that time of the year again when dogs are exposed to the unpredictable loud bangs and flashes of fireworks. They simply don't understand what's going on and some are really scared. Unfortunately, they are now subjected to this on a more frequent basis – it's no longer a once a year event.

Many of your dogs and puppies will have no problems BUT your attitude WILL affect their future reactions and can make slight nervousness much more serious. If your dog/puppy shows any signs of fear:

Do NOT try to pat and stroke him in an attempt to soothe him if he is showing signs of stress. This simply rewards how he is behaving and teaches him that he's right to be scared. Don't let him know that you're concerned. In fact simply try to act as if nothing unusual or untoward is happening.

Safety Precautions for ALL dogs – even the most bomb-proof CAN panic

    · Take the time to do a house safety check and keep all doors and windows closed.

      · Make sure that there is no access to potentially dangerous items around the house, such as open fires or glass doors.

      · Choose safe times for exercise and elimination - don’t walk your dog or allow them in the garden when fireworks are likely to go off. If he really has to go outside – make sure that he is kept safely on the lead, DON'T JUST LET HIM OUT IN THE GARDEN ON HIS OWN.

      · Don’t go out and leave him alone if you can possibly avoid it.

      · Just in case your dog escapes make sure he is wearing a collar at all times with an up to date ID tag

      If you know that your dog is scared of fireworks, or you have a new dog who is sound sensitive

      NOW IS THE TIME TO PREPARE!

      Here are a few things you can try:

      Desensitisation

      A CD is now available, which simulates the noise of fireworks. It should be played several weeks prior to the fireworks season, slowly building up the volume and length of time it is played. Your dog may then gradually become used to the noises and begin to ignore them, but unfortunately some dogs completely discriminate between live fireworks and a CD.

      Distraction

      Whilst playing the CD, try to distract your dog. Either play with him, or give him some training lessons, or give him his favourite toy/kong/chew. This will increase the effect of the desensitisation program by making your dog think about something else pleasurable whilst the background noise is going on.

      Also allow your pet some time without this distraction to hear the CD.

      Den

      Create a safe, comfortable and quiet den area for him. Ideally, this should be in a place which is furthest from the fireworks, and where he is used to resting. The curtains should be closed to hide the firework flashes.

      Prepare the area in advance, with lots of comfy blankets for him to burrow into if he wants to, and take him there several times before the event, allowing him to settle there with a chew or toy or a delicious stuffed Kong for a while, and feed him there a few times too.

      Make sure however, that he is free to come and go to this area, taking care not to lock him in the room alone.

      Some dogs find the most unusual place to seek comfort. It has been known for them to hide under desks, in kitchen cabinets and even in the bath!.

      So, really take some time to think about this – from your pet's point of view - and set up the area where they are most happy. Let him get used to his den for a few weeks before the fireworks start.

      DAP

      If you already know that your dog is scared and that he needs some further help then using a DAP Diffuser along with the CD could be very useful. DAP stands for Dog Appeasing Pheromone. It's a plug in device, similar to an air freshener, which releases calming pheromones into the air. It should be plugged in, in the room where the pet spends most time and switched on 24 hours a day for about 2 weeks prior to the fireworks.

      T-Shirts

      This may seem strange but Tellington-Touch practitioners recommend that a fearful dog can be helped by wearing a stretchy T-shirt, available from Equafleece. Presumably the swaddling effect is comforting.

      D-Day

      · Check that the den area is accessible, and prepared.

      · Take your dog for an early walk to make sure he has been to the toilet before the fireworks start.

      · Feed him an hour before the event, adding some potato or white pasta to fill him up and make him sleepy

      · Play some music in the room. This can help to mask out the noise, so turn it up to a moderate level. Check during the weeks running up to firework season what sort of music he likes – most dogs are happy with tuneful Classical but yours might be more keen on Hard Rock!

      · When the fireworks start, take your dog to his den area and encourage him to settle there.

      · If he's not settling in his den, try to distract him with a game or an easy training session, but don't force him to play.

      · You may even want to consider setting up a TV in the "safe" room and simply sitting in there with him. Normal quiet, family company may help to calm him – if he takes comfort from cuddling up close to you - don't push him away but DON'T sympathise or pet him. YOU have to be the strong, brave leader who sees/hears nothing to worry about – including him. It's hard to ignore a frightened, trembling creature BUT YOU HAVE TO, or you will make things worse.

      N.B If your dog shows signs of severe stress in spite of all your preparation PLEASE SEEK VETERINARY ADVICE – there are medications which can help.

      All the best from TTDS!

      Monday, 3 August 2009

      The Country Code


      Dog Walkers Warned to Clue Up on Countryside Code

      Dog owners have been warned by the Kennel Club to get clued up on the Countryside Code, in a bid to prevent more tragic deaths occurring over the summer months in the countryside.

      Dog owners have a responsibility under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act to keep their dogs on a lead in the vicinity of livestock. The Kennel Club is concerned that the recent incidents involving stampeding cattle, which have been spooked by dogs and walkers, will increase unless dog owners get to grips with what is expected of them in the countryside.

      Legally, dog owners are not required to use a lead on public paths as long as the dog is under close control, but the Kennel Club advises that dog owners always clip on the lead if they cannot rely on their dog's obedience since a barking or running dog will attract the attention of livestock.

      Owners should never let a dog approach or chase wildlife and farm animals – there is a serious possibility of getting kicked or trampled, and in extreme cases dogs may be shot by landowners for chasing livestock. At certain times, dogs are not allowed in some areas to protect sensitive breeding sites – dog-owners should follow the signs.

      Kennel Club Communications Director Caroline Kisko said: "More and more people are venturing out into the countryside with their dogs over the summer months, but those who live in urban areas might have a potentially dangerous lack of knowledge about what they need to do to keep both them and their dog safe.

      "Just as you would take precautions around busy roads and crowds of people in towns, dog owners also have a responsibility under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act to keep their dogs on a lead in the vicinity of livestock. The countryside is for all to enjoy but dog owners must be respectful of this issue when walking their dog. Young cattle are naturally curious and are particularly interested in dogs so avoiding fields with cattle grazing is a sensible precaution.

      "If cattle turn on your dog, the best advice is to follow the Countryside Code - do not risk getting hurt by trying to protect you dog. Unclip its lead and get out of the field as quickly as possible – most dogs can run faster than their owner and will get out of harm's way – then call your dog as soon as you are out of danger."

      Earlier this year, the Kennel Club teamed up with Peak District National Park rangers and rural police to remind pet owners that, by law, they must keep their dogs under control so that they do not scare farm animals and wildlife. It is also important to leave gates as you find them when walking through the countryside.

      For more information on the countryside code and access visit http://www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk/

      Sunday, 19 July 2009

      Giardia and your dog and other causes of diarrhea

      There are many reasons that your dog may develop sickness and diarrhea - sometimes it may be that your dog has been scavenging to some underlying infection.Never let a bout of diarrhea go on for too long - especially in puppies.Any sign of lethargy get your pup or dog to the vet immediately for treatment and diagnosis - it may well save it's life.Puppies can get dehydrated very quickly.

      Giardia is a protozoan parasite found all over the world. It infects humans, many domestic animals and birds. Giardia lives in the intestinal tract and infection may be asymptomatic or can result in gastrointestinal symptoms.

      Giardia infections (called Giardiasis) show no gender or breed predilection but are most common in young animals and in animals under close confinement, such as those in kennels, animal shelters and pet stores.

      Most cases of Giardia infection in humans arise from person-to-person contact or from contaminated water, but animals do harbor strains of Giardia that are infectious to humans and animal-to-human transmission theoretically is possible.

      What to Watch For

    • Diarrhea
    • Vomiting
    • Weight loss
    • Flatulence (excessive gas)

      Diagnosis

      Veterinary care should include diagnostic tests
      and subsequent recommendations.
    • Direct fecal smears to look for two different stages of the Giardia organism called "cysts" or "trophozoites." A positive direct smear results in a conclusive diagnosis of Giardiasis, but direct fecal smears may be negative in infected animals.
    • A zinc sulfate concentration test to identify Giardia cysts.
    • An enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) test to identify Giardia antigens in the stool.
    • Direct immunofluoresence test to identify Giardia cysts in feces.
    • Collection of samples from the duodenum (first part of the small intestine) during endoscopy and examination for Giardia trophozoites.

      Treatment

      Treatment for pets with Giardia infection may include one or more of the following drugs:
    • Metronidazole
    • Fenbendazole
    • A combination of praziquantel, pyrantel and febantel

      Home Care and Prevention

      Administer as directed all medications prescribed by your veterinarian. All of the prescribed medication should be given to insure elimination of the infection. A high-fiber diet may improve stool consistency in pets with diarrhea associated with Giardia infection.

      Decontamination of the environment is an important part of preventing infection. In multiple-dog households and in situations in which animals are under close confinement (e.g. kennels, animal shelters, pet stores), proper sanitation is crucial to prevent cross-contamination from one animal to another. All fecal material must be removed from cages, runs and yards. Kennels must be cleaned with appropriate disinfectants and totally dried before allowing pets access to them.

      All animals should be treated with appropriate medication before being introduced into a multiple-animal environment.

      Bathing animals before introducing them into an uncontaminated environment allows for removal of feces and infective cysts from the hair coat.

      Pet owners should remove feces from the yard, avoid allowing their dog to drink from streams and lakes, and regularly bath the animal to remove any feces from the hair coat.

      A vaccine designed to aid in the prevention of disease caused by Giardia recently has been developed (GiardiaVax®).
    • The protozoan parasite Giardia occurs in two forms. The active (motile) form that lives and multiplies in the intestinal tract is called a "trophozoite." It can be recognized under the microscope by its characteristic appearance, which looks somewhat like a monkey face with two eyes and a nose. The trophozoite only lives in the intestine and cannot survive in the environment for any significant length of time. The other form is called a cyst and is the infective form of the parasite. Each cyst contains two completely formed trophozoites inside of it. Cysts can remain viable in the environment for many months and can cause infection if conditions are cool and moist.

      Dogs are infected by ingesting cysts in the environment. Most infections arise from contaminated water, such as puddles, streams, lakes, shallow wells and water contaminated by feces.

      Giardia causes disease by damaging the small intestine, which leads to maldigestion (inability to break down nutrients properly) and malabsorption (inability to properly absorb digested nutrients). Giardia also increases intestinal motility, thus decreasing the amount of time the intestine can digest and absorb nutrients. Increased intestinal motility may be manifested by flatulence and diarrhea.

      The most common symptom of Giardia infection is diarrhea but there are many other causes of diarrhea. Some examples include:
    • Dietary disturbances: sudden changes in diet, overfeeding, dietary indiscretion, like getting into the garbage and eating too many table scraps.
    • Drugs: aspirin and similar non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as ibuprofen; many antibiotics; anti-cancer drugs; heavy metals (lead, arsenic) and insecticides.
    • Other parasites including worms (hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms) and protozoa (coccidia, Entamoeba, Trichomonas, Balantidium)
    • Viruses: parvovirus, coronavirus
    • Bacteria: Salmonella, Campylobacter, Clostridium, E.coli
    • Obstruction of the intestinal tract by foreign bodies
    • Tumors of the intestinal tract
    • Mechanical obstruction of the intestinal tract caused by volvulus (twisting of the intestine) or intususception (telescoping of the intestine on itself)
    • Metabolic disorders such as kidney failure, liver failure and hypoadrenocorticism
    • Diagnostic tests are needed to identify giardiasis and exclude other diseases. Tests may include:A complete medical history and a thorough physical examination. Specific diagnostic tests will be needed for your veterinarian to diagnose giardiasis in your pet.

    • Direct examination of a fecal smear under the microscope. The trophozoites are more likely to be seen in diarrhea and the parasite can be recognized by its rapid forward motion. Cysts are more likely to be found in semi-formed feces. It takes considerable expertise to be able to recognize cysts.
    • Fecal enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) test to detect substances given off by the trophozoites in feces. Your veterinarian may be able to perform the test in the office or may send a fecal sample to a laboratory that conducts the test.
    • Zinc sulfate concentration test.
    • A fecal sample is mixed with a zinc sulfate solution in a test tube and, after a few minutes of processing, Giardia cysts (if present) will float to the top of the solution where they can be collected and identified under the microscope. If this test is performed on three separate fecal samples from the same dog, it will detect Giardia more than 96 percent of the time in infected animals.

      Treatment In-depth

      Several drugs have been used to treat Giardia infections in pets. Anti-parasitic drugs are the most important part of treatment, but additional measures such as adding fiber to the
      diet can improve stool consistency and hasten your pet's recovery. Specific treatments include:

    • Metronidazole is an antibiotic that has been widely used to treat Giardia in dogs as well as in people. This drug has reasonable efficacy against Giardia and has the added advantage of being effective against other parasitic protozoa and some bacteria that may also have contributed to the diarrhea. Adverse effects on the nervous system have occurred with high doses.
    • Fenbendazole is a de-worming medication that kills common parasitic worms such as hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. When given at the usual dosage, fenbendazole is also very effective against Giardia. Fenbendazole is very safe and fairly inexpensive.
    • The combination of praziquantel, pyrantel and febantel is another de-worming medication used against parasitic worms, such as hookworms, roundworms, whipworms and tapeworms. Recent studies show that it also is effective against Giardia. Treatment only has to be given for three consecutive days. The drug, however, is a somewhat expensive.
    • Source http://www.petplace.com/dogs/giardia-in-dogs/page1.aspx
    • Sunday, 5 July 2009

      Using "Dominance" to explain dog behaviour is old hat

      A new study shows how the behaviour of dogs has been misunderstood for generations.
      The findings challenge many of the dominance related interpretations of behaviour and training techniques suggested by current TV dog trainers.
      According to research published by academics at the University of Bristol's Department of Clinical Veterinary Sciences,contrary to popular belief, aggressive dogs are NOT trying to assert their dominance over their canine or human pack.
      The researchers spent six months studying dogs freely interacting at a Dogs Trust rehoming centre,and reanalysing data from studies of feral dogs,before concluding that individual relationships between dogs are learnt through experience rather than motivated by a desire to assert dominance.
      The academics are saying that training approaches aimed at dominance reduction vary from being worthless to being actually dangerous and likely to make behaviours worse.
      Instructing owners to eat before their dog or go through doors first will not influence the dog's overall perception of the relationship and merely teach them what to expect in these specific situations.
      Please note - we teach "door manners", as in, dog waits at the front door until told to go through, as a safety measure - it can stop a dog getting run over.
      Much worse,techniques such as pinning the dog to the floor,grabbing jowls, blasting hooters and throwing things will make dogs anxious,often about their owner,and potentially lead to an escalation of aggression.
      Dr Rachel Casey,Senior Lecturer in Companion Animal Behaviour and Welfare, said "The blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some inane desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous.It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs.It also leads to the use of coercive training techniques,which compromise welfare,and actually cause problem behaviours".

      Wednesday, 1 July 2009

      How to avoid your dog getting heat stroke

      Every year we hear of dogs that collapse and die from the heat - our summers seem to be getting hotter and more and more owners are taking their dogs abroad into temperatures to which they are not habituated.

      Our dogs do not know that heat can kill them or at the very least make them ill - so it is up to us to protect them and educate everyone who walks them or exercises them.

      Heatstroke is caused by too much exposure to high temperatures and inappropriate amounts of exercise for the weather conditions

      All dogs are at risk - whatever their colour, whatever their coat length, but short-nosed breeds are particularly susceptible.

      HEATSTROKE - an explanation:

      1) Dogs primarily regulate their body temperature by panting.
      They do not sweat all over like humans - only through their paw pads.
      If the dog cannot evacuate enough heat through its respiratory tract - heatstroke can occur.

      2) Heatstroke is very dangerous - potentially life-threatening.
      A dog's normal temperature is 100.5F to 102.5F. Once its temperature rises above 105F physiological changes start to occur and over 106F irreversible damage starts to take place to the internal organs, heart and brain.

      3) Signs to look for include excessive panting, increased salivation, tacky irregular pulse, collapse, weakness, vomiting, confusion, inattention and diarrhea. Finally seizures and coma can occur.

      WHAT TO DO:

      1) Pay attention to your dog - recognizing the symptoms of heatstroke and taking action quickly are critical for the best outcome.

      2) Get your dog into the shade. Apply cool water to the inner thighs and belly (large, fairly superficial blood vessels).
      Apply cool water to paw pads too.

      3) Use running water if you can, to wet dogs body but never submerge the dog in a pool or bath as this can cause too rapid cooling leading to further complications, including cardiac arrest and bloating.

      4) Use cool NOT cold water or ice which is counter-productive as it causes blood vessels to constrict and slow the blood flow which slows the cooling process.

      5) Don't cover an over-heated dog in wet towels - you get a sauna effect which inhibits evaporation and therefore slows down cooling.

      6) Any airflow is helpful - air con in car, fans etc but not too cold. Too rapid cooling can lead to hyperthermia.

      7) Try to get dog to stand or walk slowly to stop blood pooling (when lying down) and encourage circulation.

      8) Encourage dog to drink small amounts of cool NOT cold or iced water. Do not allow it to gulp - could cause vomiting or bloat.
      *Cooling is the 1st priority, hydration the 2nd*

      9) Once cooling has started the dog's temperature can be slowly allowed to return to normal

      10) YOU MUST TAKE DOG TO YOUR VET ASAP - it is urgent for the vet to assess if there is any damage to the dog's kidneys or liver.
      The effects of heatstroke can continue for 48 to 72 hours longer - even if the dog appears normal to you.

      11) The most common cause of death as a result of heatstroke is Disseminated Intravascular Coagulopathy (DIC) - blood coagulating throughout the body which can occur hours or days after the heatstroke episode.

      For this reason FOLLOW UP VETERINARY CARE IS ESSENTIAL AFTER A HEATSTROKE EPISODE

      What to do to avoid Heatstroke:
      PREVENTION IS THE BEST MEDICINE

      1) Never leave your dog in a car or van
      - a car parked even in the shade with the windows open can reach fatally high temperatures in minutes.
      2) Avoid unnecessary car journeys and limit their length - when in car make sure dogs are out of the sun and not crowded together
      3) Always carry water when in car or on foot. Offer him frequent small drinks and cool his paw pads. Encourage him to paddle where appropriate or damp his feet at a water fountain or tap.
      4) Change your exercise regime - avoid middle part of day - early morning, late evening are best.
      5) Do not allow your dog to run around too much with his friends in the heat - he doesn't know it's bad for him - he will run until he collapses.
      Don't keep playing energetic ball/frisbee games. You can exercise his mind with games/tricks at home - that will tire him out if needed.
      6) Walk in the shade - dogs can overheat even walking on pavements. Walk as little as possible on hot surfaces.
      7) When leaving your dog at home - create a cool, shady, well ventilated environment. Close curtains/blinds to avoid dog lying in sunlight through glass. Leave plenty of fresh water.
      8) Don't allow him to sunbathe outside for too long in fierce sun - some dogs love it but they may overheat.
      9) Remember some dogs (especially those with smooth coats and pale colouring or white muzzles) have virtually hairless pink patches on their noses and pink edges/tips to their ears - they need sunblock or they will burn
      10) Consider using a soaked bandana round his neck - the evaporation will help - but keep re-wetting it. Or you can buy a special water retaining cooling bandana from various internet companies
      11/Don't think that having your dog's coat clipped short once the sun comes out is a good idea - you may well be exposing him to the harmful rays of the sun causing him to burn. He needs some protection so try to be sensible when you time that hair cut.
      12/Ensure that your dog has access to cool clean water at all times.

      Take care of your precious pooches and make sure everyone who takes them out takes the same care that you do and knows what to do if your dog does get heatstroke.
      Hopefully this information will help avoid any episodes of heatstroke but now you know action to take if it happens - and it can with even the best care.

      Sunday, 17 May 2009

      How to bath your dog




      Before you begin bathing your dog, there are a few things you must do to prepare. Proper preparation can make the process easier for you and your dog.

      Choose a Location

      A bath tub is usually the easiest place to bathe your dog, though very small dogs may be bathed in a sink. If you will be using your bath at home, it might take a toll on your back and knees so consider kneeling on a cushion.

      If you choose to bathe your dog outside, remember that cold water is no fun for most dogs. You may want to hook up the hot water so your dog can get a nice warm bath.


      Gather Supplies

      • Soft, absorbent towels. Beach towels work well for larger dogs.
      • Shampoo -- should be intended for dogs and soap-free. Products containing natural ingredients are often best.

      • Brushes and combs -- choose the appropriate tool for your dog's hair type.

      • Bath mat / towel for your dog to prevent slipping, if necessary.



      • Apron and / or old clothes -- you are going to get wet!
      • Some treats to give your dog as you bath him to make it a pleasanter experience.

      Tip: Brush your dog out before the bath begins. Be sure to remove any tangles or matts as these are harder to deal with once your dog is wet.

      1.Soak your dog from head to toe with warm water using a hand- held sprayer.

      Always test the temperature on your arm before spraying your dog.Be sure to avoid the eyes and the inside of the ears.Many dogs have water resistant coats,so a thorough soaking is usually necessary to penetrate the coat.

      Tip: Your dog will instinctively want to shake the water off. Keeping a hand on your dog's head may help prevent this. Don't wet your dog's head till you have shampooed the rest of his body - they don't like getting their faces wet. Avoid getting water and shampoo in his eye and ears.

      2. Apply shampoo to your dog's coat. Avoid the eyes, face, and genital area. Use enough shampoo to create a lather. Apply small amounts of shampoo at a time to avoid using too much.

      You can use a small bucket and sponge – fill the bucket up with water and add the shampoo and use a sponge to apply the diluted shampoo – it us quicker to get the shampoo distributed through the dog's coat this way.

      Tip: Mix two parts shampoo with one part water so a more liberal amount can be applied. Add the mixture to a spray bottle or large plastic cup for easier application. Remember to use caution around the face and eyes.

      3. Rub, scrub and massage your dog for several minutes. You can use your fingers, just like shampooing your own hair. Your dog will probably actually enjoy this part. Remember to clean the feet, too. Ideally, you should allow the shampoo to remain on your dog's coat for a few minutes before rinsing. If it is a big dog by the time you get to the end you can start rinsing where you started!

      Tip: You can also use a rubber tool with small nubs made especially for bathing a dog. It provides an extra massage for your dog.e.g. a Zoom groom


      4. Apply a stream of warm water to your dog's coat, avoiding the eyes and ears. Thoroughly rinse all shampoo out of your dog's coat. It is very important to remove all shampoo residue from your dog.


      Tip: Do not forget to rinse the feet and any skin folds or crevices on your dog.

      5. If you can get your dog out doors for a good shake - stand back and let your dog have a few good shakes.

      Then, towel-dry any excess water from your dog's coat. Lay a towel on the ground and let your dog go for it. Many dogs will instinctively rub on the towel and continue to shake off the water.

      If your dog tolerates it, your may want to try blow-drying. Be sure to use a dryer with very low or no heat. Only turn it up as high as your dog tolerates, and stay away from the face, eyes and ears. Once completely dry, thoroughly brush your dog out.

      Congratulations -- you're done! Give your dog a treat, and you'll probably get a nice wet kiss in return. Your dog might be a bit tuckered out, so a nap may be warranted. Put your feet up and relax, too.

      How Often to Bath a Dog

      If your dog's hair is dirty with the faeces of other animals, you should clean him immediately. But it is not necessary a complete cleansing. You can leave the mud in his hair till it dries, and then brush it out. It's not recommendable to wash the hair frequently, because it eliminates the waterproof natural agents, and tends to tarnish the skin.

      If your dog is muddy you can rinse it off with plain water and towel dry.

      Over shampooing will dry out your dog's natural oils in his coat and could cause skin irritation. Regular grooming is important – every day preferably to stop matting occurring and to check that all is well with your dog's body – even short haired dogs.

      Thursday, 12 March 2009

      What Is So Bad About Chocolate?






      Chocolate is severely toxic to dogs because it contains theobromine. This is a stimulant that effects the nervous system and heart muscle, as well as increasing the frequency of urination.

      Dogs can't metabolize theobromine as effectively as humans. This allows it to build up in their system until it reaches toxic levels of concentration. This may lead to a variety of health problems including death due to cardiac arrest.


      The less the dog weighs the more you should be worried because the toxicity levels are higher.

      Here is a chart that has been published in the National Geographic Magazine that tells you the about the different types of chocolate and the effects it can have on your dog.

      http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2007/10/pets/chocolate-chart-interactive

      Check your dogs' weight against how much chocolate can cause symptoms from vomiting and diarrhea to death.

      Cocoa Mulch is also toxic for your dog.Please click on this link for more information on the dangers of this cocoa-based garden soil dressing.
      www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1486323/Cocoa-mulchwarning to dog-owners.html










      Sunday, 8 March 2009

      Lungworm

      Puppies and dogs are naturally inquisitive and put all sorts of things in their mouths.Snail and slugs can be plentiful at times in our gardens and you need to be aware of the dangers that they can pose.

      The life-threatening lungworm A. vasorum is carried by slugs and snails.
      If your dog comes into contact with these common garden pests there is a risk it could become infected.

      Please don't forget that slug pellets also pose a danger to your dog so don't use them.Try to find a safer way to deal with snails and slugs.


      Please go to this site for more information about lungworm and be guided by your vet regarding diagnosing it and treating it.
      There are several types of worms that your dog will need treating against so do discuss your course of action with your vet.

      Please don't leave your puppy in the garden unsupervised as there are so many potential dangers for them.

      Monday, 2 February 2009

      Snow and your dog's paws

      Snow, slush, ice and cold weather all take their toll on a dog's paws. In addition, rock salt and other sidewalk treatments can leave your dog with painful, sore feet. During the winter, you'll need to take extra steps to prevent problems like cuts, infections, sores and painful paws.

      Instructions

      Step 1

      Ice balls can form between toes very quickly in snow and your dog will go lame.If this happens wash the paws with warm water after going for a walk or play time outside. You want to wash off harmful irritants like salt and prevent your dog from ingesting any of the chemical de-icers by licking their feet. This also eliminates any ice or snow that has built up between your dog's toes that could make walking painful.

      Step 2

      Inspect your dog's paws after every walk,particularly when you have walked in areas treated with salt or another de- icer.Be sure to check between the toes and look at the pads for any cracks or sore spots.

      Step 3


      Cut your dog's nails and trim the hair on his feet regularly. Hair that is too long attracts snow and slush which can cause problems. Keep from cutting the fur too short, however, as it offers protection for your dog's feet.

      Step 4
      Apply petroleum jelly,baby oil to your dog's paws to soothe irritated feet.Be careful not to apply too much ot too often as pads that are too soft can also lead to irritation.You can also apply just before going outside as it can help protect your dog's feet but take it off again when you get back inside.Pet store's also sell special wax or other products that work in the same way.

      Step 5
      Treat any cuts, sores or infections that develop according to your vet's instructions. If you notice that your dog seems to have painful feet even without sores, take a day or two off from walking in the snow.





      Friday, 23 January 2009

      Caring for your dogs Teeth






      Dogs, just like humans, can get cavities. Their teeth should be cleaned at least twice a week. Feeding your dog dry dog food and giving him dental chews and nylabones to chew on is one way to help keep his teeth healthier.

      'Plaqueoff' is an excellent supplement to add to your dog's food to assist with keeping teeth clean.ProDen PlaqueOff™ Animal is a completely natural product. It is a special type of seaweed which has been found to have specific beneficial effects for oral care. It comes in a granulated form which is easily added to food every day. It is rich in natural iodine and contains important vitamins and minerals and is free from artificial colours, preservatives, gluten and sugar.

      http://www.molarltd.co.uk/plaqueoff/proden_plaqueoff.htm

      Two common problems dogs with poor dental hygiene have, are loose and abscess teeth. Does your dog have bad breath? Studies show that 98 % of dogs with bad breath are suffering from periodontal disease, a result of plaque build up. If left untreated, this can lead to a bacteria infection, which can enter the bloodstream and spread to your dog's kidney, liver, heart and even their brain. Chances are if your dog has very bad breath, there is a problem with his teeth.

      Why can't I use human toothpaste on my dog?

      There are many wonderful brands and types of toothpaste for humans. Why can't we use them on our dogs? Because dogs do not spit, and human tooth paste is not edible. Your dog will most definitely swallow whatever you use to clean his teeth. You can purchase an edible toothpaste, just for dogs, at the pet store. There are many flavors available. Try to find one that your dog likes; your dog will be more likely to let you brush his teeth. A nice beefy brushing will be a tasty treat for your dog. If your dog squirms when you try to brush his teeth you may need a helper to get the job done.

      How should I brush my dogs teeth?

      This is easiest if you start when your dog is a puppy by letting her hold a toothbrush in her mouth, then working up to actually brushing her teeth. If she's beyond puppy status, try having a partner hold her while you brush a few teeth at a time and subsequently reward her.

      Cleaning your dogs teeth is not as hard as it sounds, if you have the right supplies.

      You will need doggie toothpaste, and either a toothbrush, a nubby-surfaced rubber cap, a wash cloth or a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger.


      Position yourself and your dog, so that you can access the dogs teeth comfortably. Lift your dogs upper lips and begin to brush in a circular motion, much like you would brush your own teeth. Be sure to brush where the tooth meets the gum-line. Don't forget to get the very back teeth, since this is where your dog is most likely to develop problems. When you are finished the top, move on to the bottom.

      Brush your dogs teeth at least two times a week and have your dogs teeth checked once a year by your veterinarian. If your dogs teeth have significant tarter build up, they need to be cleaned. This is usually done with anaesthesia.

      Source - http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/teeth.htm

      Tuesday, 20 January 2009

      WORMS IN DOGS


      • It is important that you are aware that your puppy or your dog can carry different types of worms and it is necessary for you to treat your dog for infestation .

      • Here is some information we have found from various sources about the different types of worms in dogs and are passing on to you.

      • Check out any facts stated with your vet if you are in anyway concerned as he/she is the expert.

      • Remember to strictly adhere to any worming regime using the brand of medicines/dosage prescribed by your vet.

      • Don't be tempted to purchase what may be cheaper but less effective remedies from other sources.

      • Be guided by your vet as to which treatment is suitable and how often your puppy or dog needs to be treated. Infestation can cause all sorts of symptoms

      Below you can find a list of common telltale symptoms of dog worm infestation, but keep in mind that these symptoms can also be a sign of a more serious problem.


      Either way, always consult a veterinarian whenever your dog is not his usual self."

      • Dull coat

      • Weight loss

      • Appetite loss

      • Pot-bellied appearance

      • Coughing

      • Low energy level

      • Diarrhoea

      • Vomiting

      Here is a list of the various worms that may possibly affect your pet.

      TAPEWORMS











      The tapeworm gets its name from its long, flat, tape-like appearance. It is yet another parasite that affects the intestines, and like the roundworm, can be seen by the naked eye. Broke pieces of this dog worm would be found in the dog's faecal matter, which give it a rice-like appearance. These pieces of worm, although broken, can be found (still moving) around the dog's anus, in his stool or in his bed. Common symptoms of severe tapeworm infestation are abdominal pain, nervousness, severe itching around the anus, vomiting and weight loss.
      Transmission to dogs is often caused by the ingestion of infected fleas. Although, humans are susceptible to being infected, a dog cannot transmit the dog worm to a human directly.









      HOOKWORMS
































































      These parasites are barely visible to the naked eye. Young puppies are often born with these parasites since they can migrate from encysted stages in the mother. Others ingest the eggs of hookworms when the pets are kept in unsanitary conditions or on soil. Hookworm eggs are quite fragile, so bright sunshine and dryness kills them rapidly. When a living egg is eaten, it hatches in the pet's stomach and quickly burrows through the stomach lining and into the pets tissues. It then migrates through the body – often the liver – as it matures. Eventually, the worm is coughed up and re-swallowed.












































































      This time, the worm makes its home in the pet's small intestine where it chews and damages the lining as it sucks blood. Pets often become anaemic due to this blood loss. Their stools are often abnormally dark and loose as well. Heavy hookworm infections in young or debilitated pets can be fatal. Hookworms are diagnosed by microscopic examination of the pet's stool for characteristic parasite eggs.
















      ROUNDWORMS (TOXOXARA & TOXOACARIS SPECIES)

























      These are larger worms, which look like spaghetti when passed in the stool. Again, puppies can be born with these parasites. When present in large numbers, the puppies often have a potbelly and dry, scaly hair coat. Unsanitary conditions increase the likelihood of these parasites and they are often found in conjunction with hookworms. Roundworms have no mouth so the do less damage to the lining of the intestine. They do their damage as they migrate through the body and by producing colic as the thrash about in the intestine. Occasionally they will obstruct the flow of bile from the liver. Unlike hookworm eggs, roundworm eggs are very resistant to drying, sunshine or disinfectants. They can last for years in soil and still be infective. They can also transfer to young children and cause eye inflammations in children and adults. The same pharmaceuticals, which cure and prevent hookworm disease cure and prevent roundworms.









      WHIPWORM













      Although not nearly as common as hookworms or roundworms, these worms are most common in adult animals – especially those housed in groups or kennels. These worms have a direct life cycle and do not leave the intestine.









































      Eggs are passed in the dog's stool and after 2-4 weeks in a warm, moist environment, they become infective to another dog. The eggs hatch and the worms mature in the coecal area of the intestine where they can cause chronic bowel inflammation. Many dogs show no signs. Others have soft or mucousy stools and fail to gain weight. It is often difficult to diagnose infection because eggs are sparsely shed from time to time. Dog whipworms are not infectious to humans.

















      FRENCH HEARTWORM





























      Heartworm is a major parasite of dogs in many parts of the world and causes serious health problems in unprotected animals.









      In Europe the 'common' form of heartworm is prevalent in areas around the Mediterranean and is spread by mosquitoes.









      Vets occasionally see this form of heartworm in imported dogs arriving from affected areas. However this may become more of a problem as UK dogs travel on mainland Europe under the Pet Travel Scheme.









      In the UK a different type of heartworm is already present. Up until quite recently the parasite Angiostrongylus vasorum (French heartworm) was thought to be limited to certain areas in Cornwall and Wales. Only one case had ever been reported in the south-east of England but that all changed at the end of 1999 and through 2000 as veterinary surgeons were presented with increasing number of these cases.

























      It is suggested that the most likely way that this problem has been spread is by the fox population for which snails and slugs make up an important part of their diet. The foxes in turn pass on the parasite back to the slugs and snails in their stools.









      LUNGWORM








      The bug is spreading among dogs in the UK and leads to a disease called angiostrongylosis.
      It has a wide range of symptoms which can make it difficult to diagnose.
      However, with the increasing appearance of the parasite causing this disease, vets are on the look out for the condition before it progresses to a stage where it becomes fatal.
      The lungworm parasite spends part of its lifecycle in slugs, snails or even frogs.
      The danger to dogs arises when small slugs or snails are swallowed while rummaging through undergrowth, eating grass, or drinking from puddles or outdoor water bowls.
      You might notice coughing, reluctance to exercise, depression, weight loss, fits, vomiting, diarrhoea, weakness and paralysis, or persistent bleeding from minor cuts. However, a small proportion of dogs are hidden carriers, which means they don't show any symptoms.
      Owners who notice any of these symptoms or whose dogs might eat or come into contact with slugs or snails should contact your local veterinary practice for an immediate consultation.
      The sooner the disease is spotted, the easier it is to treat and the more likely the dog will go on to make a full recovery.

















      Sources –









      http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/6-1-2006-97997.asp









      http://www.wormfree.co.uk/dog_cat_worms/en/tapeworm/tapeworm1.shtml









      http://www.midlothianadvertiser.co.uk/news/Lungworm-warning-to-Midlothian-dog.4657999.jp









      http://www.parkvets.com/patients/disease_info_library/french_heartworm.html

      Monday, 5 January 2009

      Why we don't use punishment or aversives.


      At Tip Top Dog School we try to base all our training methods on reward-based motivational techniques.

      The words "Aversive" and "Punishment" mean delivering a harsh correction to the dog.

      We do not do the following :

      Smack

      Hit

      Rub noses in urine or faeces

      Lead jerk

      Knee in chest

      Throw discs or rattle cans

      Spray water

      Why not? - because there are humane and effective alternatives to punishment.

      Here are a few of the main reasons why punishment can cause worse problems than the unacceptable behaviour one was trying to stop:

      A punishment requires perfect timing and it has to be severe enough to stop the behaviour first time.

      Most owners do not have good enough timing to deliver the punishment within 2 seconds of the undesirable behaviour.

      If the punishment is delivered time and time again escalating in severity (as is not working ) it actually becomes ABUSE.

      Punishment only teaches the dog what NOT to do.

      Positive training teaches an alternative behaviour – if you teach your dog to "sit" he can't be jumping up etc.

      Punishment teaches any reasonably intelligent dog to keep away from you.

      e.g Why should he come to you when called if you shout or hit him when he has ( at last) come back to you.

      Any bad behaviour that is fear based can be made worse by using punishment.

      e.g the dog that is barking at another dog because he is scared of it, is now afraid of you too if you hit him for barking at the other dog.

      You do not earn your dog's trust and respect by intimidation and physical abuse.

      Only kind, fair and consistent training will make a dog regard you as their leader and guardian.

      You don't change the dog's attitude by punishment.

      e.g If you punish a dog for growling at you – it may not growl a warning next time - but go straight in and bite you.

      Your dog may not understand the reason for the punishment.

      e.g You may think you are punishing your dog for chasing a jogger – but your dog might think you were punishing him for not going fast enough to catch him.

      Your dog cannot generalise or discriminate

      If you punish him for chewing the chair leg he will still chew the table leg. If you allow him to have an old trainer as a chew-toy he will think it's OK to chew your brand new ones

      Punishment can cause a dog to shut down.

      The dog decides that everything he does is wrong so he doesn't try to do anything and he cannot learn

      Punishment can seem like a reward to the dog.

      e.g Touching your dog to stop him doing something can seem like a reward to your dog even if you think you were reprimanding him.

      Punishment can physically and mentally damage your dog.

      e.g Lead jerking can cause severe long-term injury to neck and spine, plus - why on earth should your dog want to walk next to you if you keep hurting him?

      Punishment can backfire with horrific consequences in cases of aggression.

      e.g You may punish the dog and he won't bite you – but his anger could make him re-direct his aggression to another dog or even your child or grand-child

      Punishment can become owner contingent.

      e.g Just because you have suppressed an unwanted behaviour, rather than teaching the dog how you want him to behave, it does not mean the dog won't do it when you are not present.

      Punishment can be simply a way of the owner venting their own anger and frustration.

      Please don't get the wrong idea - positive does NOT mean permissive.

      Dogs, like children are happiest knowing their boundaries and what is expected of them.

      At Tip Top we believe in helping you to understand your dog's natural behaviour and how to train your dog to behave acceptably in all life situations - not just in the classroom, which is why we explain what we are doing and why.

      We do not just teach obedience exercises.

      By some trainers' criteria we at Tip Top are not 100% purely positive.

      We do use "Time-Outs" occasionally and we will use a "No" if necessary.

      We don't allow doggy tantrums or temper biting (of you or us).

      We won't smack or shake the dog but we will restrain him until he calms down (and stops trying to sink his teeth into us!)

      We do believe that all dogs must have enough trust and respect for their handlers that they will accept handling and restraint from an early age.

      Wednesday, 1 October 2008

      Common misconceptions

      Ah, but my dog always looks GUILTY after he's done something like this!

      No. He's reacting to your body language and emotions. When you come in and see the toilet paper all over the floor, you get mad. The dog can tell that you are upset and the only thing he knows how to do is to try and placate you, as the alpha. So they try and get you out of your bad mood by crouching, crawling, rolling over on their backs, or avoiding eye contact. You interpret the dog as acting "guilty" when in fact the dog hasn't the faintest idea of what is wrong and is simply hoping you will return to a better mood. The important thing to remember is that if your dog finds that it cannot consistently predict your anger or the reasons for it, it will begin to distrust you -- just as you would someone who unpredictably flew into rages.

      This is why it's so important to catch dogs "in the act." That way you can communicate clearly just what it is they shouldn't do. Screaming and yelling at the dog, or punishing it well after the fact does not tell your dog what is wrong. You may in fact wind up teaching it to fear you, or consider you unreliable. You must get your dog to understand you, and you have to work on the communication gap, as you are more intelligent than your dog.

      Preventing your dog from unwanted behaviours coupled with properly timed corrections will go much further in eliminating the behaviour from your pet than yelling at it.

      In fact, you should not yell at, scream at, or hit your dog, ever. There are much more effective ways to get your point across. Try instead to understand the situation from your dog's point of view and act accordingly.

      When dogs are mad at people, they do all kinds of spiteful things.

      First remember that "undesirable behaviour" is in the eye of the beholder. To the dog, it's perfectly alright to dig, to bark, to chase after other dogs, etc. This doesn't mean you can't control these behaviours, of course, but it does mean that the dog isn't doing them "to spite you." The dog hasn't a clue that it's not to do these things unless you train it not to. And it has to understand what you want from it!

      We tend to think that dogs have the same emotions as humans - they don't! Dogs live in the 'here and now' and are opportunists! Even the best well trained dog will very likely help himself to that joint of meat that you left tantalisingly on the worktop!

      When dogs start undesirable (to humans) behaviour, its best to try to understand the source of this behaviour. Often it stems from the frustration of being left alone. Dogs are very social animals. One positive solution is to make sure your dog is properly exercised. Exercise is a wonderful cure to many behavioural problems and dogs just love it. Do check with your vet for the proper amount of exercise for both the age and breed of any dog. Another solution is obedience training. The point is, your dog needs your attention, whether it is by taking it out on a walk, training it, or both.

      Hey, Rover would rather be outside all day than cooped up inside!

      False. Dogs are strongly pack-oriented animals. They prefer best to be with their pack whenever possible. If you are inside, they will want to be inside with you. If you are outside, again, they will want to be with you. If you are at work, while they would still like to be with you, this is not usually possible. In this case, does it matter whether the dog is kept inside or outside? It turns out that many dogs behave well when kept inside; bark, dig, and whine while kept out in the yard. Why is this? Your home is the "den." Dogs prefer to be closer to the centre of the den -- the place where the pack's smells are most acute. While some dogs are happy to stay outdoors during the day while the rest of the pack is gone to work, a great many dogs develop behavioural problems as a result of daily "expulsion" from the den.

      In addition, a dog with access to a large territory may feel compelled to "defend" all of it, resulting in other types of problems: frantic barking at "intruders," and so on. Restricting the amount of territory it has to protect may reduce this type of behaviour.

      A good compromise for many dogs is access both to a restricted part of the house and a restricted part of the yard. The inside-outside access keeps him from feeling ejected from the "den" without having too much territory to defend. A dog that can't be trusted inside and is destructive outside will probably benefit the most from being crated during the day. With most dogs, if you crate them through puppy hood (which also helps with housebreaking), by the time they are mostly adult (from 8 months to 24 months of age depending on the breed) you can start weaning them off the crate. Because they are used to spending the time in the crate quietly, they will form the habit of spending that same time quietly whether in the crate or not as adult.

      Well, OK, but it's different in the country, isn't it?

      It is an absolute myth that living in the country confers greater latitude in the dictum "thou shall keep thy dog constrained to the immediate environs of the pack." Country dogs allowed to run free get shot by hunters or farmers protecting their livestock. They get into fights with other dogs over territory. They can kill livestock, fight and tassle and get disease from wild animals, and be hit by cars on the highway. They become increasingly aggressive as they vie for larger and larger perimeter boundaries to their territory, and they no longer relate to YOU as the leader of their pack. Also, don't forget that intact animals will breed and add to the overpopulation problem.

      This same misconception leads people to dump unwanted dogs "in the countryside." Most such dogs die a painful death, either by slow starvation, injuries from being hit by a car or in a fight with another animal, or they are shot by farmers protecting their livestock. The countryside is not some sort of romantic haven for stray dogs.

      Sunday, 28 September 2008

      Dog Appeasing Pheromones

      At Tip Top Dog School we have found the DAP products very helpful in alleviating various problems in a variety of situations including fear issues,separation anxiety, settling puppies in new homes etc.

      As the firework season is fast approaching it is a good idea to consider using DAP well in advance to prepare to your dog.

      DAP - Dog Appeasing Pheromones

      Female dogs secrete pheromones that comfort and reassure their nursing puppies. These "appeasement" pheromones have the same calming effect on adult dogs. DAP. mimics these appeasement pheromones to reduce or eliminate stress in dogs of all ages.

      DAP is a range of products which calms anxious dogs by delivering a 'scent' into the air. It cannot be detected by humans ( nor does it effect any other species) but it seems to have a unique effect on dogs.

      It is available in three forms:

      Impregnated into a collar for the dog to wear (one collar lasts about 1 month)
      As a plug-in diffuser to release the compound into the air within a building (lasts about 1 month before needing a refill)
      As a spray to be applied to surfaces such as bedding, or in kennels,car or travel crates. Also can be sprayed on to a bandana to be worn by the dog.

      How does it work?

      Pheromones are found very widely in the natural world and can have a profound effect on animal behaviour. Dogs with their sensitive noses are known to respond to them, and DAP uses this effect in a useful way. DAP products contain a compound manufactured to mimic a natural pheromone produced by bitches while feeding their puppies. In puppies it works to reassure them as they explore the world around them. It has been found that DAP works on both young and adult dogs, helping to comfort and reassure them in stressful or fearful situations.

      What is it used for?

      DAP is able to relieve stress or fear felt by dogs in challenging situations. In young dogs it helps when they are introduced to a new home, or to new challenges in the outside world (meeting other dogs, traffic, strangers etc). Some adult dogs become over-attached to their owners, and are excessively stressed when then have to be left alone. They can show a variety of unwanted behaviours, such as barking/whining, destructive chewing or scratching, or toileting (messing) inappropriately. Scientific research has shown that DAP can help these problems*.

      * The Veterinary Record 156:533 (2005)

      Are there any side effects?

      DAP is not a drug and it does seem to be extremely safe to use. It is not however a magic solution to every problem encountered in worried or stressed dogs. Sometimes it appears to have very little effect, on other occasions it works very well. Probably it always makes some difference, but this is likely to be greatest if other methods are used at the same time to help the dog in question with its individual problems. There are a variety of techniques used to help dogs which are "stressed". These are often not obvious to the layman, and so specialist advice should be sought if progress is not being made.

      DAP DIFFUSER

      Helps stop or prevent fear and stress related signs in puppies and adult dogs, such as: Destruction, Vocalisation, House soiling and Excessive licking.

      DAP comforts the dog in stressful environments: vet visits, fireworks and unpredictable situations and helps puppies cope with new environments.

      Plugs into an ordinary socket.

      DAP SPRAY

      Helps comfort puppies and adult dogs in situations they may find worrying such as car travel, vet. visits etc. and can also help stop or prevent fear related reactions expressed as destruction, whining, vomiting or house soiling.

      Spray 8-10 pumps of DAP 15 minutes prior to expected effects into the environment (car, carrier, kennel). Effects should last approx. 2 hours

      DAP COLLAR

      Helps comfort puppies and adult dogs in situations they may find worrying.

      The collar stays on the dog at all times helping with events both inside and outside the home including: new home, strangers, unpredictable situations, thunderstorms, gunshots and fireworks.

      DAP is readily available from vets,pet shops and the internet.

      Wednesday, 27 August 2008

      Puppy Coprophagia (Faeces eating)

      The sweetest,cutest looking puppy can start eating it's own faeces - here are a few tips to help resolve the problem.

      Autocoprophagia (an animal eating its own faeces) is common in puppies between the ages of 3 and 9 months and usually resolves itself.

      However it is understandably offensive to the pup's owner and makes one reluctant to accept puppy kisses!

      Possible Causes:

      Genetic

      Coprophagia can have a deep-rooted genetic base as at the very beginnings of domestication (around 40,000 years ago) dogs were scavengers living off human waste.

      Allelomimetic (Copying)Often the puppy remembers its mother cleaning up the nest and eating the litter's faeces (again an instinctive behaviour to prevent odours attracting predators).

      Clinical

      Possibility of a digestion problem – in other words, the owner is feeding the correct nutrients but the puppy is unable to digest/absorb what it needs so it eats its own faeces as a way of recycling the undigested food – illogical actually – if it could not digest the food the first time around – why would it be able to on the second attempt?

      However if the problem persists the owner MUST consult their vet to definitely screen out any physical problems.Make sure the puppy is not infested with worms.

      Nutritional

      Puppy may not be getting all the nutrients it requires from its present food. Feed the best quality/chemical additive & preservative free food possible e.g Burns which is highly digestible and only contains consistently high quality ingredients. Sometimes changing protein or carbohydrate source helps.

      Boredom

      Autocoprophagia is a common problem in puppies who are crated for long hours and have inadequate physical and mental stimulation – faeces started off as something to play with.

      Resource guarding

      Pup may have observed owner cleaning up and decided that as the faeces are so important/valuable to the owner - pup decides it should get there first and eat the faeces so you can't have them.

      Attention seeking

      If owner or anyone cleaning up has made a fuss about the mess – told puppy off/ made it clear that it is not acceptable to poo in bed/crate/kitchen etc – they have inadvertently rewarded the pup's behaviour by paying attention to it – any attention is rewarding to a puppy – even negative attention.

      Hiding the evidence

      If anyone has chastised/punished puppy for house-training accidents – puppy may eat its own faeces to destroy the evidence.

      Puppy enjoys the taste

      Offensive as it may be to humans – many puppies regard their faeces as a delicious snack!

      ONCE COPROPHAGIA IS ESTABLISHED AS A HABIT IT IS HARD TO BREAK – BUT MOST PUPS EVENTUALLY GROW OUT OF IT

      What you can do:

      1) Make sure pup is kept scrupulously wormed on the regime prescribed by your vet.

      Worms can make puppies hungry and nutritionally depleted.

      2) Feed puppy the very best quality food – the most easily absorbed and the one containing the purest ingredients – with the correct protein/carbohydrate levels appropriate for its age and all required nutrients. Sometimes changing the protein source makes the faeces less appetising.

      3) Try adding a small amount of pineapple to diet – it is supposed to make faeces taste horrible. Or purchase a product like "Deter – coprophagia treatment" or similar. (Pills to be taken)

      4) Clear up any faeces as quickly as possible – just one success for puppy in managing to eat its delicious snack will put back your programme.

      Call puppy away from the accident (if indoors) and reward with high value treat for coming to you. This is training an alternative behaviour – coming away from the poo instead of eating it and receiving a reward for doing so.Treats have to be delicious to compete with poo!

      5) Do not clear up in front of the puppy – if pup has accident indoors – do not say anything or appear annoyed – quickly and quietly remove puppy to another room and clear up when they can't watch, or puppy will gobble it down even faster next time.

      6) Work very hard on housetraining. Teach puppy to eliminate on cue – feed high value treat while pup is actually going and afterwards and praise lavishly. Lure puppy away from the spot – praise and reward. Treats must be very special for puppy to swap her delicious tasting poo for your treat. Put puppy inside and clear up – don't let puppy see you.


      Summing up:

      If the problem is not improving considerably within 4 weeks using the above methods – you MUST consult your vet. It is not fair to continue to assume that we are dealing with a behavioural problem if there could be an underlying physical cause.

      Stopping puppy Coprophagia is very much of vigilance,management and prevention i.e not allowing the behaviour to happen.

      Tuesday, 29 July 2008

      Identity Tags for your dog

      Why should your dog wear correct I.D. ?

      Number 1 - because the law says so

      Number 2 - so that your dog can be returned to you if it gets lost.
      Even if your dog is micro - chipped it does not help the person who has found your dog get in contact with you and reunite you both.

      Re: number 1 - The Law.

      Control of Dogs Order 1992 states that 'every dog whilst in a highway or in a place of public resort shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached to it'.

      Penalties -

      Your dog may be seized and treated as a stray.

      You could be liable to a £5,000 fine if you do not have I.D.

      N.B. Please be aware that there are already enforcement officers out on the streets and there will be more in the future.

      What you need to be legally compliant.

      - On the tag you will need to have -

      - Your surname

      -Your flat number ( if you live in a flat)

      - Your house number or name

      - Your postcode

      It is also a good idea to have the following -

      - Your home phone number

      - Your mobile number and any family members that you deem necessary

      - If you have a dog walker ask to have a disc with their details put on your dog when in their care.

      Microchipping your dog is a very sensible thing to do as in the case of dispute of ownership it can be proved that the dog is yours. A tag can always be removed but not a microchip.

      You can also have inscribed on your tag ' please scan me'.

      When ordering your tag it is a good idea to get a spare and that way you will have a back up.

      Checklist.

      Your name

      Your house number/name and flat number if you live in a flat

      Postcode

      Checklist.

      Landline and mobile phone numbers

      Here is a very good site that offers a prompt service for dog tags -
      http://www.identitag.co.uk/pet_tags/index.htm



      Saturday, 26 July 2008

      Spectator article

      This is an amusing piece written by Anna Blundy, one of our clients that was published recently in the Spectator and we wanted to share it with you all.

      http://www.spectator.co.uk/the-magazine/features/852346/make-him-sit-and-wait.thtml

      Thursday, 3 July 2008

      Hot dogs are not cool in cars

      This is from the July issue of the Kennel Club news - Hot dogs are not cool in cars

      Hot dogs are not cool in carsThe evidence of global warming seems to be hotting up, with April being the warmest since records began, and the rest of the summer is set to follow suit with forecasters predicting one of the hottest ever.

      While some of us humans are happy, how do our dogs feel, wrapped up in their fur coats?

      In these warmer months a quick trip to the shop in the car does not mean much to us, but for our dogs it is a different matter. The temperature inside a car and outside is staggeringly different; cars can become like ovens with temperatures soaring to 120°F/49°C within six to ten minutes. Even with windows open, it can take just 20 minutes for dogs to suffer from heatstroke and die an agonising death.

      Even responsible dog owners can make the mistake of not realising just how lethal travelling in the heat with their dog can be and the Kennel Club has produced a set of guidelines outlining the safe way to travel with your dog in these warmer months.

      ALWAYS

      • Consider the weather and your journey in advance, especially if you don't have air conditioning in your car. Think about whether the journey for your dog is absolutely necessary.
      • Make sure your dog has plenty of space in the car and isn't squashed or forced to sit in direct sunlight.
      • Always make sure there is shade provided, even in an air conditioned car a dog can become too hot if in full sun.
      • Make sure plenty of stops are taken with lots of water available to drink.
      • Take cold water in a thermos rather than a plastic bottle so it stays cold rather than being luke warm. Ice cubes are helpful in a thermos for cooling too.

      NEVER

      • Leave a dog unattended in a car, even with the window open and water available. Take them out of the car and leave them in a secure, cool place with access to shade and water.
      • Let your dog take part in unnecessary exertion, or stand in exposed sunlight for extended lengths of time.
      • Pass by a dog if you see one suffering in a car. Whether it be in a supermarket car park or show, make sure you make someone in authority know and if in doubt call the police or the RSPCA on 0870 55 55 999.

      Remember hot dogs are NOT cool in cars ever!

      Tuesday, 1 July 2008

      Boarding your dog

      It is that time of year when you suddenly realise that you are going away and need someone to look after your darling pooch!
      Here are a few tips for you to think about when choosing who to care for your dog.
      1/ Try to get someone who has been recommended either by a fellow dog owner,a friend or even a dog sitter who cannot help you at that time.

      2/ Do meet the person a few times.Go out with him or her with your dog for a few walks to make sure that you can see how they treat not only your dog but other dogs in their care and to ensure that the dogs who may be walking and staying together get on well.

      3/Make sure that you have more than just their mobile telephone number! You need a land line as well as an address.If they are not willing to give it to you then please think carefully about employing that person.
      4/ Ideally they should be insured.Don't be afraid to ask them if they have insurance.At the end of the day once the dog is in their care they are liable if your dog causes an accident or injures someone.
      5/ Make sure that when your dog is in their care that they put I.D. tags with their mobile number on,name,house number and postcode.
      6/Do ask where your dog will be sleeping etc
      7/ Don't be afraid to ask as many questions as you want to.After all,you need to feel happy and relaxed that your four legged friend is going to be treated as one of the family.
      8/Ideally you should provide the food as a sudden change can cause upset stomachs.
      9/Make sure that your dogs vaccinations are up to date - including Kennel Cough.
      10/Make sure that the dog sitter has got contact numbers for you abroad as well as a contact in England.
      11/In the event of an emergency your sitter will need to go straight to a vet to get treatment.Discuss this possibility.if vets fees are incurred whilst you are away think about how this can be managed.

      Don't forget that all the tips we have sent out are available for your reference on the website.

      Dogs and Sticks

      It seems the most natural thing in the world:

      You are out with your dog, he is running about, happy as a sand boy.

      He picks up a stick up and you take it from his mouth.

      You are just about to throw it for him –

      STOP!!

      Did you know just how much damage this could cause to your precious pooch?

      It is not uncommon for death to result, but usually it causes pain, discomfort, and often long term infection and damage.

      It can lodge in your dog's mouth, throat and even penetrate your dogs skull.

      Please do take a few minutes to read this website where you can get a vet's opinion on the dangers of throwing sticks for your dog.

      http://www.colliecorner.com/stick-to-toys/new_page_vet.htm

      Instead of sticks, why not get your dog playing with a suitable toy?

      You can use a ball, a ball or kong on a rope, a Frisbee or a tuggy type toy.

      For best results this toy should be 'owned' by you.

      Don't let your dog have 24 hour access to the toy – it should be 'special' – only to be played with together.

      That way you will have his maximum attention when you suddenly produce it when out on a walk.

      Please do think about what danger you are inadvertently putting your dog in when out and about. A fatal injury only happens once, but once is enough if it's your dog. You can't turn the clock back.

      Saturday, 28 June 2008

      Keeping your dog safe in the garden

      We found this information on a couple of websites and thought it will be useful and also important that it is available to you.
      (http://www.guidedogs.org.uk/index.php?id=1729)

      http://www.dog-first-aid-101.com/toxic-garden-plants.html

      Green-fingered pet owners need to make sure that the garden is a safe and fun place for all the family - including the four-legged members!

      Chemicals

      Many common garden products can be poisonous, even fatal, to dogs. Slug pellets are particularly dangerous and so are some weedkillers. Read the instructions carefully and keep these products well away from animals. Some weedkillers say they are pet-safe, but when you check the small print, this applies only once they have dried, so animals have to be kept away for several hours after application. If you suspect your dog has eaten slug pellets or any other toxic substance, you should:

      contact your vet immediately;

      follow any first aid advice carefully;

      be prepared to take your dog to the surgery for urgent attention.

      Plants

      Some common plants can be poisonous to animals and, in extreme cases, can be deadly. Bulbs can look especially tempting to the average greedy hound but can be dangerous, so keep them well out of reach.

      Garden tools

      Never use a lawn mower or strimmer when your dog is in the garden: these can cause severe injuries. Never leave tools with sharp points or blades lying around, as dogs can easily be injured if they stand on them. Hose pipes may be tempting for dogs to chew, so leaving them out may result in you getting soaked next time you turn them on!

      Water features

      Make sure that all ponds, etc are properly covered, especially if you have a puppy, as it could be unable to get out of even the shallowest garden pond.

      Fencing

      Whilst you are working in the garden, check all fencing is dog-proof to prevent your dog being lost or injured on the roads. If you are using creosote or any other wood preserver, keep animals away until it is dry and make sure that containers are never left uncovered for animals to drink from.

      Dangerous to dogs

      These are just some of the most common plants which can be poisonous to dogs and range from mildly toxic to very poisonous. A more comprehensive list can be obtained from the Royal Horticultural Society on 01483 224234.

      • clematis armandii
      • foxglove
      • primrose
      • yew
      • fritillary
      • rhododendron
      • horse chestnut
      • ivy
      • rhubarb
      • laburnum
      • lobelia
      • wisteria
      • sweet peas
      • lupin
      • euphorbia
      • nightshades
      • poppy

      chrysanthemum

      What follows is a long list of toxic garden plants, ranging from bulbs to perennials to trees and shrubs.

      If you like to garden, try to avoid using any from this list.

      If you already have some of these poisonous garden plants, consider creating a fenced-in run to keep your dog away from your gardens.

      Bulbs

      If your dog loves to dig in your yard or garden, these toxic garden plants are particularly dangerous.

      The bulb is the poisonous part of the plant. Also keep your dog out of any gardening or storage sheds, or your basement, if you overwinter these bulbs.

      Some of these toxic garden plants, such as daffodils, are also offered as houseplants in the spring, sometimes by charities.

      Place them where your dog can't get at them.

      • Amaryllis (Amaryllis spp) Family: Amaryllidaceae
        Causes vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, hypersalivation, anorexia, depression, tremors.

      • Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes irritation of the mouth parts, bloody vomiting, diarrhoea, shock, multi-organ damage, bone marrow suppression.

      • Daffodil (Narcissus spp) Family: Amaryllidaceae

      Causes severe gastrointestinal disorders, convulsions, shivering, dermatitis, muscular tremors, hypotension (low blood pressure), and cardiac arrhythmias.

      • Elephant Ears aka Caladium (Caladium hortulanum) Family: Araceae
        Causes irritation and intense burning of the mouth, lips and tongue, excessive drooling, vomiting, difficulty in swallowing.

      • Gladiolas (Gladiolas spp) Family: Iridaceae
        Causes abdominal pain, vomiting (occasionally bloody), diarrhoea (occasionally bloody), hypersalivation, depression.

      • Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes intense vomiting, diarrhoea (occasionally bloody), depression and tremors.

      • Iris (Iris spp) Family: Iridaceae
        Causes vomiting (occasionally bloody), diarrhoea (occasionally bloody), abdominal pain, hypersalivation, depression.

      • Lily of the Valley (Convalaria majalis) Family: Liliaceae
        These are particularly toxic garden plants, and can result in death.
        Causes vomiting, ataxia (loss of muscle control), cardiac arrhythmias, death.

      • Narcissus (Narcissus spp) Family: Amaryllidaceae
        Causes severe gastrointestinal disorders, dermatitis, convulsions, muscular tremors, shivering, hypotension (low blood pressure), and cardiac arrhythmias.

      • Tulip (Tulip spp) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes intense vomiting, diarrhoea, hypersalivation, inappetence (loss of appetite), depression.

      Ferns

      Some of these ferns are generally grown in hanging pots, and so should be relatively safe if you have a dog.

      Watch for berries falling to the ground from these toxic garden plants, though.

      • Asparagus Fern (Asparagus sprengeri) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes allergic dermatitis with repeated skin contact. Berry ingestion could result in vomiting, diarrhoea or abdominal pain.

      • Emerald Feather aka Emerald Fern (Asparagus densiflorus) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes allergic dermatitis with repeated skin contact. Berry ingestion could result in vomiting, diarrhoea or abdominal pain.

      • Lace Fern (Asparagus setaceus) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes allergic dermatitis with repeated skin contact. Berry ingestion could result in vomiting, diarrhoea or abdominal pain.

      • Plumosa Fern (Asparagus plumosus) Family: Liliaceae
        Causes allergic dermatitis with repeated skin contact. Berry ingestion could result in vomiting, diarrhoea or abdominal pain.

      Flowering Plants

      These toxic garden plants are very popular for their blooms. Cyclamens can lead to death.

      • Cyclamen (Cyclamen spp) Family: Primulaceae
        Causes vomiting, gastrointestinal inflammation, and death.

      • Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) Family: Saxifragaceae
        Causes vomiting, diarrhoea, anorexia, increase in heart rate, hyperthermia, depression.

      • Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe spp) Family: Crassulaceae
        Causes vomiting and diarrhoea. The bufodienolides are cardiotoxic. These are the same type of toxin as found in poisonous toads.

      Tuesday, 24 June 2008

      Ticks

      Greetings Tip Toppers!

      This is the time of year that your pooch may pick up a free loader! You don't have to go away to the country for your dog to pick up a tick. Even in London, on Hampstead Heath and indeed in your own garden it can happen!

      Ticks

      Ticks are blood-sucking parasites, fortunately less dangerous in the UK than in some foreign countries. However ticks bite both humans and animals and can cause diseases and local infection – after mosquitoes ticks are the second most common insect to transmit diseases to animals. For this reason it's very important to know how to recognize a tick and how you can prevent them harming your pets.

      Sheep ticks are commonly found in long grasses, moorland and woodland where sheep have been grazed. Hedgehog ticks can be found in your garden.
      The first sign you will see on your pet is a small grey dot attached to your pet's skin. The tick will grow larger as it feeds on your pet's blood - to the size of a pea or bean .

      All ticks should be removed as soon as possible.

      Tick Control

      Control and prevention of ticks is extremely important in reducing the risk of disease associated with ticks. This includes removing the ticks as soon as possible and trying to prevent attachment.

      1. Discuss prevention with your vet – pets which come into contact with sheep grazing areas or hedgehogs should be treated regularly to prevent infestation

      2. Groom your dog thoroughly every day and check skin. Thorough grooming may brush out a tick from your dog's fur before it buries it's mouth parts in the skin. The inside of the ear, the groin and the head are favourite spots for ticks.

      Tick Removal

      IF YOU ARE SQUEAMISH OR NOT 100% SURE YOU CAN MANAGE SUCCESSFULLY TO REMOVE THE WHOLE OF AN ATTACHED TICK YOURSELF – INCLUDING IT'S BURIED MOUTH PARTS:

      **TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE VET**

      · The best recommendation to remove a tick is to use a commercially available tick removal device and pull the tick off.( e.g Mikki Tick Picker is excellent)

      · Do not touch the tick since diseases can be transmitted. Consider wearing gloves when removing a tick.

      · Apply some alcohol to the tick e g, neat whisky or gin, surgical spirit or even nail varnish remover. With a tick removal device, grab the tick as close to the head as possible. With steady, gentle pressure, pull the tick out of the skin. Frequently, pieces of skin may come off with the tick.

      · If the head of the tick remains in the skin, try to grab it and remove as much as possible. If you are unable to remove the entire head, your dog's immune system will try to dislodge the head by creating a site of infection or even a small abcess

      · Usually no additional therapy is needed, but if you are concerned, contact your vet. There are surgical instruments that can be used to remove the remaining part of the tick.

      Monday, 23 June 2008

      "Don't put your face near the dog"

      Greetings Tip Toppers!

      This month's "Tip" reinforces the advice we always give to children:

      "Don't put your face near the dog"

      Below you will read information we found while studying Pavlov and his research on reflexes.

      As we are not scientists or vets, we cannot be 100% sure how true it is, but both of us feel that we had to send in on to you all for safety reasons.

      Both of us have tried this with our dogs.

      The reaction from our boys was simply 'please don't do that! and a swipe of their ear by their paw. Quite obviously they were not impressed by us blowing in their ears, but we must stress that our dogs have been proofed against all sorts of stimuli over the years and are quite 'bomb proof'.

      Sorry Tip Toppers, even for you - we're not going to do the research and go round blowing in a load of dog's ears, risking the consequences!

      All the best from TTDS!

      Hugging Dogs

      Greetings Tip Toppers!

      Hugging Dogs and The Air-puff Bite Reflex

      All parents need to know about a brain-stem (spinal) bite reflex which all dogs have in common. This reflex is just as automatic as the human "knee-jerk" reflex when the tendon below the knee cap is tapped. The dog's bite reflex occurs when air is blown into its ear. When children and, often, adults hug a dog by the neck and inadvertently exhale at, or near, the dog's ear, the bite just happens, i.e., the dog has no "say" in any decision to bite. This unconditioned reflex can also become a "conditioned reflex". That is, after only one hug-with-breath-in-the-ear, many dogs can bite when simply hugged. The moral is... teach kids not to hug their own or other people's dogs, no matter what you may have seen in the movies!

      All the best from TTDS!

      Christmas

      Greetings Tip Toppers!

      Christmas is fast approaching and we need to take care of our four legged friends. Watch out that he doesn’t get in to harm with the Christmas tree and all of the sparkly decorations and beware of the little toys that come out of crackers.

      Chocolate is a big ‘No No’! It is toxic so if you want to give your dog chocolate buy the doggy chocs from the pet shop.

      Grapes and raisins contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys.

      Turkey bones will do your dog a lot of harm and please make sure that the string round the turkey or joint is well out of harms way! It will smell and taste good but will do him serious harm.

      If ingested, holly (leaves and berries) causes stomach upset and can be potentially fatal to both dogs and cats. Mistletoe upsets stomachs and can cause heart collapse, while hibiscus may cause diarrhoea. Poinsettias have an irritating sap that can cause blistering in the mouth and stomach upset. So when you brighten up your home, place these plants well out of your dogs reach, or use imitation holiday plants.

      Watch out for visiting toddlers who may not know how to behave around a dog.If you are having lots of visitors around respect the fact that he might not appreciate being mauled by all and sundry. Make sure he’s got somewhere to disappear to. Allow your dog to get out of the way if he wants to.

      With all the other stresses going on think about preparing a treat for your dog a day or two before hand and pop it into the fridge/freezer so you’ve got it handy when you need it.

      After that massive meal, leave someone else to do the washing up and take your dog for a walk. The fresh air will do you good and you and he will feel a lot better for it!

      All the best from TTDS!