Coping when your dog gets lost - from the perspective of one owner

SUKI - My beloved Doggie, who was missing for 5 weeks, and is now home

The truth is I don't know how I coped with Suki being missing for five weeks, but somehow I did.

From my brave, but skittish little dog I've learnt so much; that I have inner resilience, that I'm lucky to have a creative life that keeps me going during sad times (and there was MUCH sadness when Suki was missing),that feeling sad is natural sometimes, that dogs have their wildness and sometimes struggle to be pets, that some dogs need to take things very slowly indeed, and so much more.

Suki has had a complex life to date. She was a breeding dog up until May, when I re-homed her. She seemed to love her home straight away, and settled in well. But I didn't realise how much Shiba Inu's bond with just one person(me in this case, because I was caring for her), so when looked after by someone she didn't know that well she ran away on Primrose Hill, and had an accident which involved lots of injuries.

Slowly, gradually, with lots of care she recovered well. And for that I'm deeply thankful to the Well Animal Clinic, my Mum and friends.

All seemed to be going smoothly for Suki this Autumn, but there was more adventure to come. I was directing a play, so was not at home as much as usual, and for two days a week employed a dog walker. Suki seemed to be really coming out of her shell, getting friendlier with other dogs, and generally bolder at this time. Unfortunately she spooked at a loud noise on West Heath and ran away in early October.

The things that kept me going were: My Mum's support and help, the huge efforts the dog-walker put in to try andfind her, my imagination, Steph at Dogs Lost (who gave great advice), Sue at Tip Top who checked in with me,and put the word out to so many people (even though we'd only met her once), and some great friends Yael, Sasha and Andrew who helped me look on the Heath.

Before Suki was found I have to admit I was beginning to give up hope, and wondering whether I should try to move on from the loss, but I resolved to keep going with a few things: to respond to any sightings ASAP and to keep advertising for Suki. I also (probably for myself more than Suki) talked and sang to her which I know sounds a bit mad, but anything that helps I say do it!

I was trying to accept and hope that she was somehow okay, and being looked after, whether that was by me, herself or a stranger.

Myself, Mum and the dog walker did a lot of looking, postering, advertised Suki's loss in the papers, phoned every dog charity, vets, rivers, the railways, police, hampstead heath constabulary - everything we could think of. We did some scenting for a while (see Dogslost website for further details) We even consulted an animal communicator (which I'm still not sure about...) but basically it felt better to do something rather than just wait.

I managed to keep working (only took one day off), directed a successful play and set up another project in that time - which I still find slightly incredible.

The morning I spoke to Terri, who found her, it was like a miracle.I could hear from her voice that she was genuine, and when she said Suki was wearing her collar with her tag with her name on I was pretty sure. She and her lovely rescue dogs had found her in a thicket, near Golders Hill Park, and lured her out with some sausage.

Suki is now safe and well and snoozing on a new blanket.

Thank you to everybody who helped bring her back! My advice to anyone who loses a beloved dog. Do everythingyou can to find them, but be gentle on yourself and try to keep the rest of your life going. If you do find them its a combination of luck and looking, and life is short - so don't drive yourself mad if you don't succeed. Dogs are pets but they also have a wildness - that's just their nature.

Titania Krimpas.November 2011

What do do if you loose your dog -
Go to www.DogLost.co.uk where you will ge all the help you will need.You can organise posters from there but you will need to be signed in.

Contact Dog Wardens', rescues,some contact numbers of London rescues are listed below, vets and leave a poster . For contact details of vets in your area click on the light green logo "Find any UK Vet" on our website.

Dogs can be rehomed after 7 days, try and visit rescues do not rely on phone calls alone. If your dog is Chipped do contact the Chip Co and report him missing and check your details are up to date.

Please update us on who has been contacted i.e. DW's etc and if you have started postering. You can leave a comment by typing in the Comments box.

Posters can be printed by selecting View Poster just below the dog's details (you must be registered and logged in).

Suggestions for places to poster : -

Direct area of loss – veterinary surgeries – local pounds, and rescue centres - dog walking areas – dog bins – park entrances and exits – boarding kennels and catteries - re-cycling areas- petrol stations - pubs, and pub car parks - railway stations – bus stations – bus stops - post offices – newsagents - supermarkets and their car parks – pet shops, and animal food stores - corner shops – off licences – take away food shops – library's – mobile library – schools, inside and out if poss, and school gates – inside rear side windows of car - taxi drivers – taxi offices – garden centres and nurseries – doctors surgeries – clinics – community centres – village halls – telephone boxes – riding centres and stables – dog groomers - town, village, and church notice boards – works notice boards and canteens etc etc .

Flyers :- Hand to dog walkers who will always spread the word – Postmen, plus a poster for the sorting office – bin men – street cleaners – milk men – paperboys - children and parents outside schools – pubs, ask to leave a pile on bar, and place on tables (dogs get sold on in pub car parks) – same with markets, fairs and boot sales, hand out flyers and poster the entrances (dogs get sold here too ) - hand out flyers at gatherings such as sports matches, fetes and concerts - post through letter boxes of neighbouring properties and business's - pay to get flyers into the local newspaper , magazines and free publications.

LONDON RESCUES

Animal Rescue & Care (ARC)

PO Box 46, Twickenham, TW11WG

Tel: 020 8607 9902 Email: arc@animalrescueandcare.org.uk

www.animalrescueandcare.org.uk

Battersea Dogs Home

4 Battersea Park Road, London, SW8 4AA

Tel: 020 7622 3626 Fax: 020 7622 6451.

www.dogshome.org

Battersea at Old Windsor

Priest Hill, Old Windsor, Berks SL4 2JN

Tel: 01784 432929 Fax: 01784 471538.

www.dogshome.org

Dogs Trust - West London

Highway Farm, Harvil Road, Harefield, Uxbridge UB9 6JW

Tel: 0845 076 3647

www.dogstrust.org.uk

Enfield Dog Rescue

Palmers Green, London N13

Tel: 020 8886 4117 (before 8 pm)or 020 8376 2363 (after 8 pm)

Email: maryescully@blueyonder.co.uk

Harmsworth Animal Hospital(RSPCA)

22 Sonderburg Road

Holloway

LONDON

N7 7QD

Telephone: 0300 123 0712

Hounslow Animal Welfare Society

PO Box 234, Hounslow, Middlesex TW3 2QG

Tel: 020 8560 5443

Mayhew Animal Home

Trenmar Gardens, Kensal Green, London NW10 4RE

Tel: 020 8969 0178. Fax: 0208 969 3221

Email: info@mayhewanimalhome.org.uk

www.mayhewanimalhome.org

Peoples Dispensary for Sick Animals

Hendon Veterinary Centre

4 Church Terrace

Church End

Hendon

London NW4 4JU

0208 203 2090

Putney Animal Hospital (RSPCA)

Clarendon Dr, Wandsworth, London SW15 1AA, UK

Phone: 0300 123 0716 24 Hour emergency service

http://www.putneysw15.com/default.asp?sect...&page=rspca.htm

RSPCA Hillingdon, Slough, Windsor and District Branch

Hillingdon Clinic, 123 Uxbridge Road, Hillingdon, Middx, UB10 0LQ

Tel: 01895 833417 Fax: 01895 834461

Email:fundraiser@rspcahillingdonclinic.org.uk

www.rspcahillingdonclinic.org.uk

National Animal Welfare Trust Rescue Centre

Tylers Way, Watford By Pass, Watford, Herts WD25 8HQ

Tel: 020 8950 1320 (10am to 4pm)

Email: reception@nawt.org.uk

www.nawt.org.uk

Steph (Aunt Stef) Volunteer

Area Co-ordinator (West London)

mobile: 07980 387427

Landline: 0208 866 6543

stephtaylor@talktalk.net

Since Dog Lost began in 2003 over 13000 missing and stolen dogs that have been registered on the site have been reunited. Dog Lost is run by volunteers but your donations are essential to keep the web site running.

Help us to help others. Please make a donation today

www.doglost.co.uk

0844 800 3220

Admin 0844 800 3220

admin@doglost.co.uk

Coping with a Tibetan Terrier : Part 2 Going for Gold

Bobbie is my wonderful but naughty Tibetan Terrier.  She is now 3 years old and I can't believe that it was just over 2 years ago that we were introduced to Tip Top Dog Training. 

 

Being my first dog Bobbie was very indulged – in fact she was spoilt rotten.  So much so that my sister bought me a sign for my porch saying 'A spoiled Rotten Tibetan Terrier Lives Here'!  Our first class with Tip Top Dogs was on the Heath and a nightmare!!  Bobbie barked throughout the lesson.  Sue kept saying to me 'walk your dog out'.  I think we spent the whole lesson walking out - it was like being sent out of class.  By week three we were, at least able to participate a bit in the exercises but I still had to keep taking Bobbie out and, worst of all, she loved flirting with all the other dogs.  Bobbie has a tendency to suck up to larger male dogs, Trooper to name one, give them loads of kisses and then roll over on to her back with a real 'come hither' expression on her face. 

 

So we persevered.  By 21^st October 2009 Bobbie was becoming a bit more disciplined but, trust me, she was still no angel.  But as that day was her birthday and it coincided with a Heath Class, I asked Sue and Barbara if we could have a special class to celebrate her first birthday.  I made up party boxes for all the class participants and Sue and Barbara put on special games, including recall without pinching the sausages!!!  It was great fun and cemented my relationship with Tip Top Training.  I now knew that this was the training for me. 

 

Bobbie and I worked really hard and went in for the bronze Good Citizen Dog Scheme run by the Kennel Club.  If there is anyone out there wondering whether to go ahead with this test, I say go for it.  Bobbie had to be the most difficult dog in the test.  When I tried grooming her, she wanted to bite me; when I tried walking her up and down the hall she decided to attach herself to my leg and refusing to let go; playing – she was having none of it.  The other dog owners were having a hard time not to laugh.  Bobbie's performance was straight out of a comedy!  However, Chris, the judge did allow us to redo certain exercises and eventually Bobbie got through with a bare pass – but she got through.  Since then we have carried on with the training and sailed through the silver and got through the gold. 

 

So now for some hints on dealing with a Tibetan Terrier.  First of all you have to be consistent.  If I give in once Bobbie knows and will make the most of it.  Secondly I have to keep practising and practice in different places.  I am lucky enough to be able to walk my dog on the Heath so have lots of opportunity to do exercises as we walk off lead.  Thirdly I have to be one jump ahead.  For example to overcome her dislike of grooming, I used to hide treats in a towel in front of her while I was brushing her.  She got so busy looking for her treats that she forgot about the brush!  Bobbie wouldn't go to her mat when told so every morning after I had finished grooming I would take her to her mat and say 'On your mat' and give her a treat.  Now she runs to her mat before I even say anything.  And, in the gold test she went straight to her mat and settled down on it like an angel!  So my advice is, if the dog doesn't do it then think of interesting ways to entice and go for it. 

 

I am very proud of my Bobbie – she has gone from an unruly 10 month old to a reasonably well behaved 3 year old who is a joy to live with.  She is gentle, I still have her first ever toy, she is loving and best of all she seems to love people.  So I say a big thank you to Barbara and Sue for having the patience to help and encourage me to get Bobbie and me to where we are today.  Thank you guys. 

Our experience with cruciate injuries

By Joanne & Andre Gibson, November 2010

Caiti, our Heinz-57 rescue, is a very energetic little dog who loves nothing better than to dash madly after a ball or chase through the woods after squirrels & birds.

About 2 years ago, she showed classic signs of a cruciate injury:

• occasionally refusing to come for a walk;

• hopping intermittently whilst on the trot;

• limping very slightly on her right hind leg when getting up after a sleep

We kept an eye on her, but after a while decided all the symptoms were most probably down to her having strained a muscle on her most recent run in the woods. So we:

• reduced her exercise; and

• had a few sessions with an animal osteopath

Both of which helped, but after a month the symptoms still hadn’t completely disappeared so we took her to our vet, who suspected a cruciate injury straight away, and after x-rays to rule out anything else, confirmed a partial ligament tear of probably about 30%.

There were 2 options:

• drastic rest to give the cruciate a chance to heal naturally with the help of some medication;

• surgery

We tried the first option and things improved a little over about a month, but not enough, so we subsequently opted for surgery - and just as well, as the cruciate had not just torn, but completely ruptured by then.

The surgery went well – for more info on cruciate injury & repairs for dogs please see here.

Recovery was a very difficult time for Caiti as we had to crate her for about 8 weeks in order to ensure she rested her leg - the slightest run or jump would have put her back in hospital:

• For the first few days she was only allowed out for toilet breaks, with no other exercise whatsoever.

• Then she was allowed a slow & gentle 5 minute on-lead walk 3 times a day, but no stairs, slopes or unstable ground.

• This was gradually increased by 5 minutes every two weeks until she got up 45 minutes, 3 times a day on different surfaces and at different speeds.

During this time we also tried some Bach Flower remedies and RRA remedy (Rhus Tox,Ruta Grav and Arnica) to help with swelling and bruising.

We kept her amused with frequent “chats”, stuffed kongs and by moving the crate around the house so she always had company.

Once she was allowed a little more movement we did some limited clicker training with her, a bit of Tellington TTouch, and introduced her to the Nina Ottosson dog brick game, all of which she loved.

We started hydrotherapy after about 4 weeks to help exercise and strengthen both legs without putting weight on the joints. We were also given gentle, progressive physiotherapy exercises to complement the hydrotherapy and walking regime.

She recovered really well, but despite our best efforts, about a year later she tore the cruciate in her other leg and so the whole process had to be repeated. Once again the symptoms were intermittent and incredibly subtle, and in hindsight we realise that she was hiding a lot from us as she is so muscular and stoical.

Although both surgeries were successful and her recovery better than we could have expected, Caiti now has arthritis which is very advanced for her age in both her knee joints. To help her in this regard, we have put her on Hill’s Joint Diet, and she also has a glucosamine tablet once a day. We have also kept up the hydrotherapy, and she goes for a maintenance session fortnightly.

The moral of the story
It sounds obvious, but if you see any of the warning signs, have your dog checked out by your vet. At worst you will have paid for a consultation to give you peace of mind. If there is a cruciate injury, the earlier you identify it the better. Surgery is not always necessary – sometimes a partial tear can be healed with a strict regime of rest. If you leave it too long before getting treatment (like we did), you risk your dog developing arthritis in the joint, as well as there being a good chance that the tear will progress into a full rupture, which apart from being extremely painful for your dog, will require surgery and be extremely painful on your pocket. Also beware that some insurance companies will only cover the 1st cruciate injury, so if the other leg goes in the future (and there’s a 50% chance it will), you will not be covered.

Doggy Alzheimer’s

It’s hard to imagine but dogs can suffer from a form of Alzheimer’s just like we do. It is called Canine Cognitive Dysfunction or CCD for short.

Dog dementia affects older dogs and can be distressing for not just the dog but the owners as well.

As our dogs get older we may notice signs of aging – a bit of grey round the muzzle, the eyes are more opaque and not as clear at they used to be. Sometimes they find it harder to get up from their bed and may not hear you as well as they used to. This aging process sneaks up on us as we have been spending a lot of time getting the dog to be “good” that we don’t notice that they have slowed down. All of the above are normal signs of getting older. However, you may suddenly notice that your dog is getting confused and this may be the onset of CCD.

CCD is very similar to Alzheimer’s disease and is caused by physical changes in the brain and chemicals. Some studies have shown that some dogs have lesions in the brain similar to the ones found in humans.

Consequently your dog is going to have trouble thinking, remembering and learning which will cause behavioural changes, which will impact upon family life.

So what are the signs of CCD?

Disorientation-

No longer responds to his name, forgets familiar tricks and possibly stops responding to basic commands

Familiar routines may get forgotten

A reluctance to play or go outside for walks and seems to be withdrawn

Gets stuck in corners or behind furniture and not being able to work out how to get round it and stares in to space

Possibly engaging in repetitive and compulsive behaviours e.g walking in circles or pacing or wandering aimlessly from room to room

Getting lost in familiar places e.g the park or even the garden at home

Has a problem finding doors and getting through them and walking up and down stairs

Gets agitated easily and may bark more for no apparent reason

Dogs may exhibit decreased interaction with people -

No longer greets visitors or even family members

Doesn’t ask for attention or petting any more

They may even walk away when being petted

Sleep patterns may alter-

Sleeps more during the day

Sleeps less at night

Possibly wandering aimlessly around instead of sleeping

Dogs with CCD may forget housetraining-

House soiling or incontinence – accidents happen

They can stop asking to go out

When they get outside they can forget why they have gone out there for

Large breeds tend to show more signs of CCD than small dogs. Some giant breeds are technically senior citizens as early as 5 or 6,while some of the smaller breeds show few signs of aging till around age 10.

At age 7,one in five dogs show some sings of CCD. By age 11 about one in three are showing signs. Almost two – thirds of dogs aged 11 to 16 have CDD symptoms.

It is heartbreaking to watch a dog that you love become confused and forgetful. If your dog is displaying any unusual symptoms go to your vet for a full assessment explaining what you have observed as CDD will not show up during a routine physical examination.

Many owners tolerate a variety of senile changes and don’t go to the vet till bladder and bowel control is lost. Sadly there is no cure for CDD but drug treatment can provide a better quality of life and slow the progression of symptoms.

Canine cognitive dysfunction is defined as the occurrence of one or more geriatric onset behaviour problems, which are not sufficiently accounted for by medical conditions. A diagnosis of CDD can only be made after any physical reason for such changes have been ruled out. There is no blood test or scan to diagnose canine cognitive dysfunction. Your veterinarian will probably want to perform a thorough physical exam with blood tests and a urinalysis. Other diagnostic tests might be ordered, and depending on the symptoms.... a neurological exam, cerebrospinal fluid analysis, or possibly a CAT scan.

Dementia and incontinence can be caused by other health problems, from treatable conditions like urinary infections and thyroid disorders, to heart failure, kidney failure, brain tumours and other life-threatening illness. A dog with painful arthritis will no longer be able to run down the stairs to greet you at the door or jump up on your bed at night. An elderly dogwho's lost his hearing may not hear you call his name or know when someone's at the door. Your aging dog might seem disoriented due to loss of vision.

Treatment for Canine Cognitive Dysfunction.
Your vet will discuss various possible drugs to administer and any foods that can help support CDD.

Some veterinarians treat affected dogs with a supplement of omega-3 fatty acids.

New pet foods are being formulated for dogs with Canine Cognitive Dysfunction.

Pet owners who participated in a study using a prescription diet reported that 74% of older dogs with a history of house soiling accidents experienced a reduction in accidents after 30 days. Enthusiasism in greeting family members increased by 61%.

The following solutions can help senior dogs feel better and enjoy a better quality of life whether they are suffering from canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome or not.

Provide mental stimulation....
Play with your dogs - Go for short walks - Talk to them - Pet them - hug them!

Prevent wandering away by keeping the dog on a leash or in a fenced area when outdoors.

Attach a bell to the dog's collar to help keep track of him indoors.

Minimize stress and change...

Don't rearrange furniture or change familiar surroundings.

Stick with a daily routine.

Take more frequent potty breaks.

Watch your dog. Remind her why she's outside and tell her what she must do.

Praise good behaviour.

Feed a senior formula pet food that's designed to combat signs of aging.

Provide raised food and water bowls so large dogs won't have to reach down uncomfortably to eat and drink.

Provide a soft, comfortable bed; away from drafts and at a height your dog can easily get in and out of. You might want to place doggy beds or cushions in several rooms of the house to provide comfortable, convenient places to sleep and relax - always near you.

For a dog who has always been allowed on furniture but can no longer jump up, place a ramp or a small set of steps near the bed, sofa, or chair your senior dog is unable to reach.

Some old dogs like some old people, age successfully and continue to function well. They remain bright and mentally alert throughout their natural life span, while there is an accelerated form of dementia in others. This devastating, progressive disease causes behavioural changes that disrupt the lives of dogs and of the people who love them and yearn for their companionship. Timely veterinary treatment plus love and patience, can give an aging dog extra quality time and a fuller, happier life.

Most importantly, keep your patience and compassion. Your dog's world has changed, but every effort should be made to show him that your love, respect, and pride of him past and present abilities has not changed and never will.

http://www.hoppity.co.uk/Homes_gardens/canine_cognitive_dysfunction.htm

http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art25417.asp

Adolescence: The Teenage Dog

Adolescence: The Teenage Dog
By Kathy Diamond Davis

The adolescent dog, like the adolescent—or teenage—human, has an immature brain in a body that's nearly the size of an adult. The maturing process happening in the dog resembles the human teenager in several ways, and your dog needs similar guidance during this difficult life stage.

The Dog's Experience

Dogs are highly instinctive animals who have difficulty understanding human priorities. Let's take a look at some of the things going on in the adolescent dog's body and mind.

1. The permanent teeth are in or coming in, and the dog needs to chew. This urge can be so strong that the dog will use your possessions for the purpose, particularly when a toy that relieves the jaws is unavailable. Some dogs don't chew much, which can seem like a blessing at the time, but these may be the dogs who have more dental problems later. Having a non-chewing dog can also make you think your next dog is a true fiend, when actually the chewing dog is more normal.

2. Rapid growth may have the dog in mild or even severe pain. Some conditions that occur during this period require medical treatment, while others may be self-limiting. We don't always know how much pain a particular dog may feel from growth. Some dogs require medication and restricted activity for a time. Others may require surgery.

3. Immature growth plates are susceptible to injury, which means that certain recreational activities and careers for dogs need to wait until the dog is more mature.

4. The adolescent dog has to discover and come to terms with limits, both of the world the dog lives in and of the dog's own capabilities within that world.

5. The body of the intact adolescent male dog produces testosterone at a rate several times the adult level of this hormone. As a result, some male-oriented behaviors can become extreme at this stage of life if the dog is not altered. These include urine-marking, roaming, and aggression toward other male dogs.

6. The intact female dog's body prepares for and experiences the first heat cycle. Behaviors you may see around this time include flirty and playful activity toward male dogs, roaming, frequent urination, false pregnancy and aggression toward other female dogs.

7. Defense drives begin to mature in adolescence, and fears the dog developed at a younger age are expressed in either shy or aggressive behaviors.

8. Other dogs begin to hold the adolescent dog more accountable than they did the puppy, with fighting as a possible result. The adolescent dog is beginning to find a place in the pack, and this process doesn't always go smoothly.

What to Do, What to Do

The human family is far from helpless in handling the adolescent dog, and it's a wonderful opportunity to establish a great, lifelong relationship with your canine family member. In some ways you just need to keep doing the same good job you've been doing to raise the younger pup.

The age at which your dog will begin and end adolescence will vary according to the breed, the bloodline, and the individual dog. That makes this stage feel a little bit like the dark side of the moon when you're going through it with your beloved dog! You can't be sure whether a behavior is a "phase" through which the dog can mature and be socialized and trained, or whether it's going to be part of your dog's adult temperament.

It helps if your dog has a responsible breeder who is available to counsel you through adolescence. Your dog's temperament may still be open to shaping during this time, but that shaping can be for the worse without the right handling. Different breeds can need different handling during adolescence, and the bloodline makes a difference, too.

Male and female dogs tend to mature at different rates. Among the large breeds, males may take a year longer to behave in a fairly mature manner than females do. Adolescence doesn't begin or end abruptly. It's an uneven process that can take quite some time, or a dog may go through most of it within several months.

If you got your dog as a puppy and provided good training, you have an advantage when adolescence arrives but your work is not done. The adolescent dog needs training experiences that the puppy was not ready for. The adolescent dog has questions that didn't occur to the puppy.

Best of all, the adolescent dog is ready to begin to bond with you in a whole new way, to form a real bond. Puppies "love everybody," and if you have a puppy who hates everyone but you, beware! That puppy is not likely to have a good adult temperament.

Adolescent dogs are ready to make distinctions about the world and the people and other dogs in it. You become an important person in this dog's life, a beloved partner, if you earn it. This is the time that good leadership with your dog, including good management, good handling and good training, begin to really show results. This is when your dog becomes your dog by the dog's choice.

Stay in training classes with your adolescent dog until at least a year of age. Many dogs will need training classes longer. Attend training class with your dog each week and practice the class homework every day. Apply the training in all possible situations so that it becomes integrated into your life with your dog, keeping communication clear between the two of you. Working with a private trainer is a reasonable alternative to classes, provided you and your dog also work in controlled situations around other dogs as you would in a class.

Be patient with your dog. Don't interpret your dog's error during a training session as deliberate defiance. The dog needs to ask questions, and you will be wisest to answer those questions kindly as well as consistently. The dog won't be any better trained because you get mad in the process.

As a matter of fact, training done in a playful tone is more effective than getting mad, because this is the most receptive state of mind for learning—and that goes for your brain as well as the dog's! Have fun when training, and make it fun for the dog, too. Hold the line on the limits of behavior because the dog needs this from you. But don't fault the dog for having questions. That's the nature of an adolescent.

Opportunity Knocks

Most people don't understand dog adolescence. Sadly, it's a prime time for people to give up on their dogs. You can avoid this terrible loss by realizing what your dog experiences during this time, and being there to help your dog through it. Both of you can come out on the other side of adolescence with an incredible bond and knowledge that will bless the rest of your lives.

If you are looking for a dog to adopt and are offered an adolescent from good genetics with a reasonable life history, consider this youngster carefully. It's not an easy time to start with a dog, and you will need good training help to get through it. But if you have the time, the patience, the resources, and the heart, the adolescent dog you adopt just might turn into the best dog you've ever had.

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=1701&S=1&SourceID=47

The benefits of joining a good dog training class over training your dog on your own?

When you get your puppy you will need to teach it right from wrong e.g, not to eat your furniture, where to go to do its business etc. The dog will need to know it's boundaries and it's place within your home as well as learning how to walk nicely on a loose lead, not jumping up at people, how to play properly with other dogs and to come back when you call.

You are going to have to teach this young pup how to be a civilised "person" in today's modern society!

There are television programmes that show you what we call "quick fixes" offering inappropriate advice.

It is sad and unbelievable that some trainers are still using harmful and damaging equipment, for instance, prong, choke and electric collars, along with training techniques such as alpha rolls, lead jerks, kicks and other punishing methods.

The practice of using aversive methods or equipment on fearful and aggressive dogs is detrimental and dangerous and can lead to re-directed aggression and even more problems.

People talk about "dominance", and that the dog needs to be dominated and " have a pack leader" are completely disconnected from the sciences of ethology and animal learning. Yes, a dog does need to know its boundaries and what is expected of it but not by fear and intimidation.

High profile dog trainers have a responsibility to all the people who watch their television programmes, read their books or watch their DVD's. Training techniques must reflect well researched non-aversive methods that will help dog and owner develop an understanding of each other's needs.

Dog owners should not be tricked into thinking that there is a 'quick fix' for every perceived dog behaviour problem - these techniques do not work.

Dogs learn through kindness, consistency and repetition. Also when you are out and about in the park you will meet people who have had dogs all their lives and offer advice that is 30 years out of date!

When you get a puppy you have got a blank piece of paper to work with and it us up to you how this puppy develops

By the 49^th day of its life the brain waves of the puppy are the same as that of a mature dog but the puppy is a clean slate. Between 7 and 12 weeks is the most rapid stage of learning and the greatest impact of his social learning will be shaped by what happens at this point. The window of learning opportunity is closing after this stage although the puppy can still learn it won't be as easy.

Between 12 -16^th weeks of the puppy's life, his basic character is set by what he is taught. This will apply especially to his attitudes toward people and toward his ability to serve them the very best he can.

By the time your puppy is 16 weeks of age he has been with you for approximately 8 weeks and this period is known as "period of cutting teeth and apron strings." Pups will attempt to clarify and resolve question of leadership. Suddenly you notice that they don't come back to you when you call them. They may even develop food-guarding issues.
Dogs don't wake up when they are adolescences and think, " I know! I think I will have a behavioural problem today!" and start flicking through a book to find one to annoy you! These problems have been allowed to happen slowly over a period of weeks and months – we just quite didn't see it coming! This is the time when a lot of owners suddenly notice that their puppy is developing a mind of it's own and get out of their depth and decide that they DO need to go to school! It is easier to put the "right thing" in than take the "wrong thing out". If they had begun to train at 8 weeks of age maybe life would have been easier and less mistakes made but dogs are a work in progress!

Just think – you don't let your child go to junior school and then drop out of education for the rest of its life!

Some owners see training a dog as a "one off process" – a short course and they think that the dog is trained. Or maybe if they have a particular problem they will opt for a 121 session but the process that a dog learns is by repetition and consistency.

These people are to be commended because at least they understand that a dog needs to be trained. Training means being taught to respond to human verbal cues generally by performing certain positions or activities and to follow a human list of expectations for manners and interactions. Dogs don't come that way.

Unfortunately some owners may have unrealistic expectations therefore they are likely to be disappointed either in the training process, the specific trainer, the methodology employed, or all of the above.

Frustration and disappointment can set in and the human – dog relationship can begin to break down.

How often have you heard: "Dogs want to please humans naturally, don't they? Dogs are genetically designed to obey a pack leader, right? He KNOWS what he did wrong!"

The thing is dogs don't speak English; we have to teach them this. They don't abide by the same social rules as we do, don't communicate in the same way we do, and don't come with remote controls or programs like a computer.

This makes them infinitely interesting as a different species with a mind of it's own that mostly lives in harmony with us, especially if we take the time to learn what makes them tick.

Think about it. You wouldn't get a car without learning how to drive it, would you?

If we look at it from this perspective training a dog can easily be seen in entirely new light. Would you be able to master a foreign language or a new skill in only six sessions?

The more you put into your dog the more you get out of it. To teach and train your dog will reap huge benefits – this beautiful creature is part of your family and you want and need to build a relationship together.

The benefits of going to a dog school or club are numerous. You will meet like-minded people, have fun, and learn how to handle your dog in different situations. Your dog will learn how to behave with other dogs, listening to you and not running off doing it's own thing. Up to date and modern methods are kinder – positive reward based training is the way forward and will help to form a wonderful working relationship with your dog. These animals have brains and bodies that need working – mental and physical exercise is needed. You will get advice when things may start to go wrong and you will have support when you need it.

So what do you need to look for in a good dog training school? Recommendations from your vet, pet shop and friends are ideal. Phone the Kennel Club, as they will steer you in the right direction to a listed school in your area.

Call the school and talk to the trainers – ask if you can sit in and watch a class. A good school will be only too happy to let you do that. Ask what methods they use – is it reward based training or is it still the old "check chain" form of training?

To sum up!

• Puppies need to be socialised properly – puppy parties are not socialising as they can be a recipe for disaster. Pups need to learn how to behave around other dogs and not play or beat other pups up all of the time. This can lead to a dog being so dog focused it will not pay you any attention.
• You need to find a good dog school that uses positive motivational techniques and not check chains, pinch- collars, sprays water at the pups or throws rattle cans at them
• Don't listen to everything that people tell you! Good dog trainers use up to date and modern techniques. The old fashioned methods were based on laboratory experiments on rats.
• Set your dog boundaries and be realistic with your expectations
• Do be consistent with your training – dogs learn by repetition and kindness
• Remember that dogs are sentient beings with emotions but they do not misbehave out of spite! Only us humans behave like that!!
• Think about how you would feel if you were on the other end of your lead – would your dog jerk you about, speak to you in a strange language and expect you to know what he wanted?
• Do no harm!

Does your dog dream?

Your dog lies asleep at your feet, and suddenly his legs begin to twitch and run. Is he dreaming? Or are you dreaming to think such a thing? Wake up and smell the dog food! Of course he's dreaming. Why would you think otherwise?

Although no one really knows the true function of dreaming it does seem to be necessary for normal data processing and memory storage. Dogs think and they have memory. And their memory banks need period purging and reorganization during sleep just as ours do.

Dogs and humans are not as different as some scientists would have us believe. Scientists tend to dwell on the differences between the two species, whereas the sameness is positively compelling. We're 95 percent identical genetically and physically (right down to the iron-containing porphyrin ring our common blood pigment, haemoglobin). Our brains are similar, our neurochemistry is the same, and our reflexes and memory are "wired" in like manner.

Types of Sleep

Like humans, dogs have two main types of sleep: rapid eye movement (REM) sleep and slow wave sleep (SWS). As a dog falls asleep the first stage he enters is SWS, the "sleep of the mind," in which mental processes are muted but muscle tone remains. The next stage is REM sleep, the "sleep of the body," in which the body is fully relaxed but the mind is racing and the dog's eyes are darting rapidly.

In SWS, brain waves are slow, undulating and of high amplitude much like those in a lightly anesthetized animal or person. In this stage, the dog appears calm and at rest. Dogs and humans are more easily aroused from SWS sleep, which appears to be a transitional state with incomplete muscle relaxation.

By contrast, in REM sleep brain waves are rapid and irregular, like those of the awake state. Dogs, like people, display REM sleep, and during REM sleep they show evidence of heightened mental activity – fast electroencephalogram [EEG] (brain wave) pattern. They may move their legs as if they are running, may whine or whimper as if excited, and may breath rapidly or hold their breath for short periods.

When REM sleep is achieved they are at their most relaxed and are most difficult to waken. It is during this more profound physical sleep that their eyes begin to dart and the brain waves pick up pace. Humans awakened from this state report that they have been dreaming; dogs are probably dreaming too when they are in REM sleep, although no dog has ever told anyone about a dream he's had.

Incidentally, adult spend about 10 to 12 percent of their sleeping time in REM sleep. Puppies spend a much greater proportion of their sleep time in REM sleep, no doubt compacting huge quantities of newly acquired data.

And if you've ever wondered whether dogs that seem to be running during sleep are dreaming of catching rabbits or something similar, you can safely say they are.

There's no doubt about it, dogs sure know how to sleep. The amount of time spent napping varies from dog to dog and depends on the dog's age and personality. Counting little naps and longer snoozes; most dogs sleep about fourteen hours a day.

Nobody is sure why dogs sleep so much. The amount of sleep that an animal needs depends upon its species. Horses and cows may sleep only three or four hours daily, because they require long hours of grazing to supply their bodies with sufficient food. Bats and opossums may sleep closer to 20 hours.

The various breeds of dogs also seem to have different sleep requirements. Some very large breeds of dogs, like Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, and Mastiffs, often spend a great deal of their lives sleeping – perhaps up to sixteen or even eighteen hours a day. For this reason they were often referred to as "mat dogs," because they could always be found lying in front of the fireplace, much like a giant, furry hearth mat.

Dogs sleep more than us, but they wake more frequently than we do. How much and when they sleep depends on the level of activity in their environment as a pet in the home is likely to sleep more than a dog that works for a living, like a search and rescue dog or a dog working on a farm. Dogs are lucky – they are able to adjust their sleep pattern so that they can be awake when there is something to do, and asleep the rest of the time.

Of course, today's modern indoor dog sometimes sleeps out of boredom. You can help your pet by providing plenty of stimulation during the day – this can be in the form of toys, a companion, or plenty of walks and playtime with you. If he has enough to do during the day, he may stay awake when the sun is up and sleep at night when you do.

Sleep Patterns

Dogs have the same sleep patterns as humans. When your dog first goes to sleep, he enters the slow wave or quiet phase of sleep. He lies still and is oblivious to his surroundings. His breathing slows, his blood pressure and body temperature drop, and his heart rate decreases.

After about ten minutes, your dog enters the rapid eye movement (REM) or active stage of sleep. He rolls his eyes under his closed lids, he may bark or whine, or may jerk his legs. During this stage, the brain activity is similar to that seen during the dreaming sleep of humans, and is evidence that dogs have dreams.

Incidentally, adult dogs spend about 10 to 12 percent of their sleeping time in REM sleep. Puppies spend a much greater proportion of their sleep time in this type of sleep, no doubt compacting huge quantities of newly acquired data.

Where dogs sleep.

You may think your dog will sleep anywhere, but some dogs are very particular about where they sleep. In the wild, dogs sleep in dens, and your dog may seek out a sheltered place in your home, such as under a bed or in a closet. You may notice your dog circling or pawing at his sleeping place before he settles. This is to make a comfortable, den-like depression in which to sleep (even though it doesn't have much impact on a short pile rug).

You can make a comfortable bed for your dog or choose from the variety of plush beds at your pet shop. Some people love snuggling up to their dogs at night and there is no question dogs love sharing their owner's bed. Advocates of this method say it strengthens the human-canine bond – not to mention the comfort and warmth your dog can provide for you. However, some animal behaviourists say this can upset the sometimes precarious hierarchy, because the dog may get delusions of grandeur. In other words, he may think he is higher on your household's social scale than some other members of the family. Four-on-the-floor may be the order of the day for some of these characters.

http://www.petplace.com/dogs/do-dogs-dream/page1.aspx

http://www.petplace.com/dogs/sleep-behavior-of-dogs/page1.aspx

If Only It Were That Easy

January 19th, 2009 by Kelly Gorman Dunbar

Many people see training a dog as a one-time process. They'll take a class or hire a trainer to help them for a while or for a particular problem and once the course is over they think, "Great! The dog is trained now."

On the one hand I commend these people, because at least they understand that a dog needs to be trained. Training meaning taught to respond to human verbal cues generally by performing certain positions or activities and to follow a human list of expectations for manners and interactions. Dogs don't come that way.

However, their expectations are not realistic and therefore they are likely to be disappointed either in the training process, the specific trainer, the methodology employed, or all of the above.

This "take-one-class-and-run" approach used to be common at our puppy school; people would happily register their tiny pup for a puppy class, but not the all-important follow up class that coincided with adolescence. As if any skill can be trained to completion, let alone mastered, in only six one-hour sessions. Not to mention the fact that puppy insecurity and compliance quickly erodes in adolescence without further building on the necessary foundation of a good puppy class. Not to mention that most human students in class are as new to the skill of dog training as their young pup, meaning that rank novices are in the position of teaching rank novices a new skill. Pretty challenging stuff.

Don't get me wrong, a good puppy class is a good thing and provides an excellent launching pad for smooth sailing later in life, but it is only the first step in a lifelong process. This is the part that so many dog owners fail to grasp. This is where disillusionment and frustration begins and where human-dog relations begin to break down. "Dogs want to please humans naturally, don't they? Dogs are genetically designed to obey a pack leader, right? He KNOWS what he did wrong!"

The thing is dogs don't speak human, don't abide by the same social rules as us, don't communicate in the same way we do, and don't come with remote controls or programs that can be installed once, like a computer. This makes them infinitely interesting to me as a different species with a mind of it's own that mostly lives in harmony with us, especially if we take the time to learn what makes them tick.

Think about it. You wouldn't get a car without learning how to drive it, would you?

One way dogs are similar to people is that they generally don't do things that aren't to their benefit somehow. Pretty smart, eh? Especially from the biological viewpoint of survival. In this way they are quite a bit like us.

In other words, they learn the way we learn, even if their idea of what is good or bad or right or wrong is different from ours. So we humans should be able to understand that practice makes perfect, rewards and resource accumulation goes a long way, and punishment and frightening experiences can inhibit behavior or cause superstitious beliefs.

If we look at it from this perspective training a dog can easily be seen in entirely new light. And shedding light on a subject makes it clearer. Would you be able to master tango dancing in only six sessions? (I assure you it hasn't happened for me!) Can you recite the poem you learned in first grade for your first parent day performance, or are you a little rusty without practice? Would you know exactly how to behave socially at an event in a foreign country, or is it possible that you might accidentally offend someone with your actions?

Next time you are training your dog please keep these things in mind and take the time to patiently explain what you'd like them to do and if they get it wrong take sometime to figure out why. It is probably not because they are just being stubborn or are challenging your authority.

The alternative, if you want easy and instantaneous, is to go train this dog instead.

Coping with a Tibetan Terrier by Judy Stapleton.

 

 

I have a Tibetan Terrier called Bobbie.  She is now 22 months and I love her to bits.   She can look like the cutest dog you ever did see, especially when she lies down and puts her head on her paws.  She is highly intelligent, learns everything very quickly; is great with children; loves people and other dogs. 

 

So now I've told you why I love my dog to bits.  But there is always another side to every good story.  Bobbie is very stubborn.  There have been times when I have spent over an hour trying to coax her home after a walk.  I am lucky enough to be able to walk on Hampstead Heath and when we get near the exit if Bobbie isn't ready to come home she will sit down and there she will stay.  No treats, no playthings, nothing will get her to come to me.  If I go near her she runs off.  So what have I done, well I've just stood or sat it out with my back to her.  Eventually she will come around to see what's going on.  Now, she will come within a minute or two – so my patience has paid off. 

 

Bobbie loves to play with other dogs – the problem is she can become over enthusiastic and then things can get a bit out of control.  So, I have tried hard to manage her playtime with other dogs.  It's OK to let her run around for a few minutes but then I need to step in.  I find that getting the dogs to sit and wait for a treat does wonders in quietening the game down.  It acts as a sort of interrupt. 

 

For ages I could never get Bobbie to go down.  She would sit without any problem at all but she would not lie down.  So, I went through a stage of asking her to go down whenever, in the past, I would have asked her to sit.  In fact, I stopped asking for the sit and only asked for the down.  I made sure I would always give her a treat; in fact I started giving higher value treats for the down than for a sit.  After a couple of weeks she was going down without any trouble.  Oh, by the way, I always made sure that I treated her if she was down without me asking.  Now I can get her to go down even if I am a few feet away from her.  Also she will stay down for 3 or 4 minutes when, before, she wouldn't even stay down for a second. 

 

Bobbie, even now, occasionally pees in the house.  I have a cat and I think accidents happen when Bobbie wants to let me know that her nose is out of joint because of the cat.  The only way I have discovered to get over this is to be aware of Bobbie at all times.  I have baby gates to prevent her wandering around the house.  Also I need to take her for walks morning, afternoon and last thing at night. 

 

Finally, I have noticed that Tibetans do not like to feel left out.  So I have gradually built up the amount of time that I leave Bobbie on her own.  To start with I left her for a maximum of 5 minutes and then gradually built that up to an hour, then 2 hours.  One thing I never did was go to her when she was crying.  I would wait until the crying stopped and then go and give her a treat, pet her and then leave her again for another few minutes.  Even now I will leave her in the kitchen and, if she cries, just ignore her until the crying stops.  Then I go to her, say hi, and then leave her again for a minute or two.  I may have a quick game with her before I leave her again but the important thing for me is that she doesn't feel that she has won!!! 

 

Hope this helps anyone with a Tibetan – the best thing that happened to me was meeting the Tip Top Dog trainers.  Bobbie and I have not looked back since and I have adapted all the coping ideas above from stuff I learnt in class.  So do not despair, keep training, keep at it and love your Tibetan. 

Blue green algae

Blue Green Algae Toxicity in Dogs

This is a warning about another Summer Hazard which can make your dog very seriously ill. Blue Green Algae tends to flourish slightly later on in the Season - but it will affect many ponds.
You can ask any park keepers/rangers what the situation is. On the Heath they usually post warning notices. If in doubt - keep your dog out of the water.

Dog owners are warned to steer well clear of stagnant ponds when catching some late summer sun with their pet. According to a leading veterinary charity, this is ideal weather for highly toxic 'blue-green algae' to bloom. This can kill if dogs drink contaminated water or swim in it and then groom themselves.

Senior Veterinary Surgeon at PDSA, Elaine Pendlebury, said: "Toxins produced by, or contained within, some types of algae are extremely poisonous and death is common and rapid – symptoms occur within 15 minutes to one hour of exposure. Death can happen within 10 to 30 minutes of this and usually within 24 hours of swallowing the toxin."

Algae can be more concentrated at water edges and even small amounts of water can contain lethal doses. In some instances, dogs have been found dead at the edge of the water.

The first signs of a problem include severe vomiting which may contain blood which then can lead to more serious symptoms. With the more toxic algae, breathing difficulties, collapse and death can develop within 15 minutes of exposure to the toxin. Although affected dogs can survive if treated quickly, clinical effects may show over a longer period of time and they may develop kidney or liver failure.

Elaine concludes: "Blue-green algae is particularly prevalent at this time of year, especially with this late summer sun we are currently enjoying. So we want dog owners to be aware of just how dangerous it can be. Dogs are particularly at risk when they drink from watering holes like ponds where the algae has spread rapidly, usually when it is sunny and the water has a high temperature."

Owners should beware of any stagnant pools. Algae can live on the surface or the bottom of the water, so the pond won't always have a scum on the surface.

Though known as blue-green algae, it can vary in colour – some are red and some are black as well as blue-green.

First Aid For Your Dog

Here is a link to an excellent website with lots of information about how to administer first aid to your dog. It deals with burns,bloats,broken legs,poisoning and much more.

Knowledge of basic first aid may well help to save your dog's life but it is imperative that you seek emergency veterinary advice/treatment as quickly as possible.
In fact the Veterinary Act 1966 was only amended in 1988 to allow anyone other than a vet to take first aid measures in an emergency to save life or relieve pain.
Needless to say you should always take your dog for veterinary care but in some instances knowledge of basic first aid may well help save your dogs life.............

http://animals.howstuffworks.com/pets/how-to-give-first-aid-to-your-dog.htm